removing intake manifold.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 1:47 am

I have all of the manuals, and I'll tell you that the basic diagram they are showing is theoretically how the system works. On 78 and earlier cars, the egr system was all external, similar to your diagram. In 79, all of the passages were internal; that is the intake passage goes from the egr valve inside the intake manifold. the exhaust passage runs from the egr valve, thru the intake manifold, thru a passage in the cylinder head to the exhaust side where a pipe attaches that also goes to the exhaust manifold. When you install an 1800 intake, the passage thru the front of the head is now open on the intake side. Though the hole is not quite round where the intake lines up with the head, the hole does become round just inside. You can install a freeze plug in the hole to block the exhaust. Or, block the passage on the exhaust side where the small pipe attaches.

Danno · Post by **Danno** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:06 am

ahhh, here we are a year and a half (plus) later and still working on it. I regret not having done any work to this car since then... Anyway, lots of reading in between then and now. I know exactly what needs to be done. I have fuel lines in the mail to me so I can get the fuel running to the new carb. I have a cardboard mockup of the bracket I'll need for my dipstick which will also cover the EGR passage and block that exhaust leak. What sort of material should I make that bracket out of? Will stainless steel work?

cross your fingers. I'm gonna get this working.....

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:13 am

stainless or mild steel would be fine, use something easy to work with

Danno · Post by **Danno** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:52 am

mark. I've put in new fuel lines and I didn't use metric. Will I have a problem with the new fuel hoses connecting to the carb? If I remember correctly I have 1/4" for my return and 5/16" for the feed.

btw, I ordered the fuel lines in 25ft lengths and think I used about 6-7 feet to get to the engine bay (that left extra to mess with at each end) so if anyone needs some we can work it out.

Also, I just bought two rolls of fuel hose in 25ft lengths and can't imagine I'll need more than a couple of feet of each.

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 12:30 pm

well, i disagree with your optimistic assessment of the low volume of fuel line required to replace stock hose.

just between the filler neck and the rear axle, you will need 9 foot of house and 14 hose clamps if you are going to replace all of the flex lines between the steel lines and the tank, and the manifold at the filler neck.

or was that 14 foot and nine clamps? anyway, it is an amazing amount of hose that is deliriously deceiving.

glad to hear that you got that intake manifold off without cracking the block. too bad you went to the trouble of removing the starter to do so. if you can believe it, it is actually easier to leave the starter in place.

now that you have the intake out, it is a great time to clean the cyclone trap and replace those crankcase breather hoses.

unless you are putting that intake back on, you will need to address the EGR port that has exhaust gases flowing toward your intake. Also, you will need to address the issue that you no longer have a quality place to hook your dipstick tube to.

are you putting an 1800cc intake on, along with a new carb? b.t.d.t.

Danno · Post by **Danno** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 1:09 pm

Mike, Most of my other hoses look good, so i'm leaving them be for now, I really only need from the line to the carb in the engine bay because I lost it. I have a strong suspicion that most of my fuel lines have been tinkered with before.

Now, as for the cyclone trap, I guess I didn't even mess with it. the crankcase breather hoses looked ok too. It's not too late to get at them, the intake is just sitting there with hand tightened nuts.

I didn't actually take the starter off, but I did loosen it.

That is an 1800 intake on there too (but, of course!) and I'm on the way to a dipstick holder/egr port plug! let me draw a quick picture and you tell me if yours took this basic shape.... (brb)

Danno · Post by **Danno** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 1:14 pm

i thought it was gonna need to be complex, but it seems like a flat sheet with one fold and the proper cutout can do it.

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 2:44 pm

are you using the now abandoned threaded hole from the 7th mounting bolt (2 litre intake) for your new dispsick bracket?

if you make it out of the correct material and size, you might kill two birdies with one stone. provide a dispstick tube mount & block the exhaust gases from leaving the block.

Good thinking.

Long term, you will want to look at the exhaust side of the engine, and stop those gases from going back into the block altogether. this can be accomplished several ways depending on your budget, and performance desires.

by the way, and totally unrelated....have you been contacted by the FLU chapter forming in your area?

Danno · Post by **Danno** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 2:49 pm

mbouse wrote:are you using the now abandoned threaded hole from the 7th mounting bolt (2 litre intake) for your new dispsick bracket?

if you make it out of the correct material and size, you might kill two birdies with one stone. provide a dispstick tube mount & block the exhaust gases from leaving the block.

Good thinking.

That's exactly what the plan is.

Long term, you will want to look at the exhaust side of the engine, and stop those gases from going back into the block altogether. this can be accomplished several ways depending on your budget, and performance desires.

The long term plan is a new 4-2-1, but lemme get this thing to actually run first.

by the way, and totally unrelated....have you been contacted by the FLU chapter forming in your area?

Say what? there is? what will the chapter be? a Midwest (IL, IA, MO) chapter or something?

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 2:56 pm

Yes, Illinois...and maybe Wisconsin too.

There are quite a few guys there abouts that are getting together right now. I know the driving force behind this group, and have met several of them recently. they are a very enthusiastic group.

Can i give your email address for this purpose directly to the organizers?

also, check your email.

Danno · Post by **Danno** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 9:11 am

mbouse wrote:well, i disagree with your optimistic assessment of the low volume of fuel line required to replace stock hose.

just between the filler neck and the rear axle, you will need 9 foot of house and 14 hose clamps if you are going to replace all of the flex lines between the steel lines and the tank, and the manifold at the filler neck.

or was that 14 foot and nine clamps? anyway, it is an amazing amount of hose that is deliriously deceiving.

I finally figured out what you meant, because I could have sworn that there was very little hose in the feed and return line. Are you sure you aren't thinking of the vapor line? there sure is a lot of that in there.

glad to hear that you got that intake manifold off without cracking the block. too bad you went to the trouble of removing the starter to do so. if you can believe it, it is actually easier to leave the starter in place.

I'm am officially an idiot, trust me when I say I know the difference, but I called the alternator the starter. I never touched the starter, and I only loosened the adjustment bolt on the alternator so that it falls to the side...

I have 4 more questions for anyone who might have an answer for me:
1. the EGR vacuum source on my 32adfa carb, what do I hook it to. or do i plug it.

2. the High/Fast Idle connection on the carb, what does it go to? I heard I can plug it.

3. The hot water connectors for the choke, does order matter, which one is which?

4. and finally, this here:

that's emissions right? there are two wires to it. can I take it out, and if I can, do I close the circuit or leave it open? What other emissions circuits do I need to worry about on this carb'ed '80? Goal is to be able to drive without any check engine lights or whatnot.

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 10:58 am

Easiest thing first - if you insist you are an idiot, who are we to disagree?

Yup, makes sense that you would want to remove the alternator for some elbow room to work on the intake manifold.

Second, the picture, yes that is part of the emissions equipment. discard it and leave the wires, or tape them to prevent an accidental short.

the connector on the carburetor that allows water to flow thru the choke is just a hollow bell. there are no baffles or valves or anything to mandate that the hoses be hooked up in any specific order.

the no longer needed vacuum source intended to feed the abandoned equipment should be plugged.

Danno · Post by **Danno** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 11:05 am

Thanks, i'll get to it tonight. that leaves the bracket for my dipstick and cutting that air box to fit, then tightening up all bolts around (disconnected coolant system, for example) then the fuel lines in the back. Charge the battery, put some gas in, put some coolant in, do an oil change, maybe new plugs.

then I guess I'll be ready to try it, hopefully that all happens this weekend!!!!

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 12:12 pm

i think i said it before, don't try running that engine with the dipstick tube on the workbench.

wadda mess!!

Danno · Post by **Danno** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 12:47 pm

mbouse wrote:i think i said it before, don't try running that engine with the dipstick tube on the workbench.

wadda mess!!

Geesh, I can only imagine!!