How to remove starter?

baggins987 · Post by **baggins987** » Sun Jun 04, 2006 5:06 pm

OK, my manual says to disconnect the battery (done), then disconnect the solenoid electrical connections and the "front" bolt, before lifting the car and removing 2 more bolts from underneath.

How the ?@#% do you get to the electrical connections and front bolt?

I can see a nut and a rubber boot (suspect that's covering electrical connections) but I can't get to either with standard tools or my hand.

I thought about removing the carb to get more space but I don't think that will be enough.

Any suggestions or tips?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun Jun 04, 2006 5:27 pm

unless you have a selection of extensions and a 13mm swivel socket, you'll have a tough job. You can reach the electrical connections either from the top, reaching down under the manifold with a 13mm wrench and working blind, or from under the car. From underneath use a long extension with the swivel socket and gain access from in front of the crossmember, past the motor mount. It's a little easier with the oil filter removed.
Then remove the 3 bolts that hold the starter from the bellhousing. Again, you'll need an extension and the 13mm swivel socket. Undo the clutch cable and slide it back out of the bellhousing so the starter will drop down after the bolts are out.
With experience, it's about a 45min job to remove and replace. Gaining that experience.....less than enjoyable!

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 5:49 am

I removed the mechanical fuel pump to gain more room and the wire to the solenoid had a spade connector so it wasn't hard to remove but I wished I had reconnected the wiring before the starter was bolted in place. If you think it's hard disconnecting the wiring, try reinstalling it!

Mark, would the engine tilt down if the motor mounts were loosened and tranny mount removed? Just trying to figure a way to get to that top bolt. I was lucky since my hands were small enough to guide the socket onto the bolt.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 10:26 am

undoing the tranny crossmember bolts will allow abit more access to the top starter bolt, but I just use my fingertip to guide the swivel socket onto the bolt

baggins987 · Post by **baggins987** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:17 pm

I got the car up on lifts and took off a big rusty plate that forms a U around the oil pan. Is that thing necessary? You need to remove that before you can get to the oil filter.

Thinking I would take this opportunity to change the oil and filter, I discovered the drain plug has an internal hex - anyone know what size? I know it's bigger than 10mm, which is the biggest I have in my hex key set...

So should I remove the carb and fuel pump? Loosening the engine and tranny mounts is a little intimidating for me. Maybe I'll look for someone with small hands to help me.

I've got a 13mm socket, a universal joint, and 9" of extensions - will that work or do I need to get a swivel socket and more extensions?

Thanks for the tips so far!

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 3:29 pm

the oil pan uses a 12mm allen
you may get away with the universal and a socket, but that makes the assembly alittle long, especially for the 3 bolts holding the starter to the bellhousing. The 13mm swivel socket is a good investment, you'll use it often when working on the car. As for the mounts, you only need to remove the 2 nuts that hold the tranny x-member to the floor. That lets the back of the tranny drop about an inch or so. No reason to remove the carb or the fuel pump. You might want to also invest in an ext longer than 9".

baggins987 · Post by **baggins987** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 11:23 pm

I borrowed some tools; the oil is drained, the filter off. Got the electrical connections undone. (Reconnecting will be challenging). I was able to remove the hidden bolt using 2 6" extensions, a universal joint, a 3" extension, and the 13mm socket. (Putting it back in will be another challenge). The other bolts are loose. I didn't have to lower the tranny yet, would it be easier to reinstall the starter if I did? Is the x-bar about 18-24 inches back from the starter? Before I disconnect the clutch cable, how do I adjust/tension it after I put it back on?

Thanks!

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 11:32 pm

to adjust the clutch cable once it's back together; remove the return spring and tighten the nut until there's about 1/4" of play in the clutch fork, then install/tighten the locknut and reattach the spring. Check the free play at the pedal, there should be about 3/4" free play. If you have the 3 starter bolts out there is no reason to lower the tranny.

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 6:03 am

I hope there is NEVER a next time for me, but I think it would have been easier to install the wiring while the starter was in position but not bolted on. The solenoid spade connector had come loose after driving it to town and it took 20 minutes of cussing just to get it on again.

baggins987 · Post by **baggins987** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:39 am

mdrburchette wrote:I hope there is NEVER a next time for me

It occurs to me that even if the starter is functional, at 29 yrs old it may be worthwhile to replace it anyway rather than have to repeat this in the near future...

Does the wiring have enough slack to connect to the starter in any position other than installed?

baggins987 · Post by **baggins987** » Wed Jun 07, 2006 10:41 pm

Got the starter out and took it to a Napa store to have it checked; they said the solenoid and drive were shot and recommended replacing the whole unit. They couldn't locate a replacement but I've found them on Bruce's and IAP.

Any thoughts on getting it rebuilt vs. replacing it? (It did spin when they bypassed the solenoid; the gear that turns the flywheel didn't have any obvious wear or any chunks missing.) Bruce's has repl. solenoids and drives, but you need to choose Bosch or Marelli, and I couldn't find any marking to determine which mine was.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Wed Jun 07, 2006 11:16 pm

you're better off finding a local rebuilder that will go thru the starter for you. Most production rebuilders merely fix the problem, clean and repaint the unit and hope it lasts until the warranty is up

baggins987 · Post by **baggins987** » Sat Jul 01, 2006 3:29 pm

Got a rebuilt starter and finally have time to reinstall it. I'm a little confused by the wiring - when I took it off I removed one nut to remove the lead to the battery and disconnected the spade connector. Now looking at the wiring to reinstall I also see two brown wires taped together, each with eye lugs. Looks like they could go on the stud with the battery lead, but don't remember them from the disconnection process. The manual doesn't show or mention them. ???

spiderrey · Post by **spiderrey** » Sun Jul 02, 2006 1:28 am

on my 70. i use a sidewider rachet to get to that top bolt. also my car has a harness the is about 10 or 12 inches long. if unplugged it can be removed with the starter, and installed with the starter. it plugs together right behind the coil. just installed a starter on a 68. , cant see while your hands working the wiring. kept stopping and looking at the connections on the starter thru the hole at the side of the radiator. i removed the fuel pump to see things better.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun Jul 02, 2006 1:35 am

all of the cables go on to the top solenoid stud, except the small wire with the spade connector