No Spark, No Gauge Indicator Lights

[lookinglasstie]

Hi, I recently purchased a '79 Spider and managed to get it running and driving after rigging up a new electric fuel pump. When I was in the process of installing a more permanent wiring solution I saw a spark from the below-dash grounding pod where I was reconnecting a ground wire. I believe I may have shorted something. When I finished wiring my fuel pump, I went to turn the ignition, and no more gauge lights turned on in the accessory position, except for the headlight one when I turn it on, also, no more hazard lights flashing (which were previously stuck on). The other electric things that still do work are the power windows, the radio, and the heater fan. To be clear, the car still cranks but does not fire, I even tested for spark using an inline bulb tester. The only other electric related thing I did that day was replace the tail light bulbs and clean the terminals with contact cleaner. Can anyone help guide me to what may be the problem here? I tested all the fuses in the fuse box with a multimeter, and they all seem to be good.

[spider2081]

The "Hazard" lights are powered from the "hot all the time" circuit They do not go through the ignition switch. The turn signal lights do go through the ignition switch. The Hazard switch selects which power source to power the flasher.

Where did you mount the electric fuel pump and where sis you connect its power source and its ground??

Outside of the black and the brown wire that power the ignition switch there are not a lot of wires near the dash grounding pod that a "hot all the time" to make a spark when the ignition switch is in the off position. (I'm assuming you were making the connections with the key off)
The center position of the dash outside lighting switch powers the parking lights and dash lights from the "hot all the time" circuit. The Down position of the outer lighting switch gets powers all the lights from the ignition switch in the "start or run" positions.
Fuses 3,4,5,6 are headlight fuses and 7 & 8 are the parking and dash light fuses.
The no spark could be that the coil is not getting power.
The coil gets its power from the pink wire on the ignition switch. The black wire brings power to the switch and the pink connected the coil to the switch. I think you should find a 6 cavity white nylon connector that often causes problems like you are experiencing. It is the ignition switches connector. The ignition switch has about an 8 inch pigtail with the connector on the end.


Hope this is some help

[lookinglasstie]

I installed the fuel pump next to the gas tank and I ran the positive straight to the battery and the negative to the below dash ground pod using a long wire and taped it to one of the spade connectors so I could easily turn it on and off by connecting and disconnecting that spade when starting the car. (Again this was only a temporary setup) It was during the action of me reconnecting the spade that had the fuel pump ground wire taped to it that I saw the spark.

Thanks for explaining what the different ignition wires do, I was wondering what wire the coil got power from.

[spider2081]

[quote] It was during the action of me reconnecting the spade that had the fuel pump ground wire taped to it that I saw the spark.[/quote
Although the fuel pump is relatively low current draw the final connection to make it run will produce a spark. The preferred place for the pump is close to the fuel tank in the rear of the car. Often the ground is made there also using one of the pump mounting screws. The ground is best if it has a screw and nut for proper tightening.
I don't think the fact you saw a spark is actually related to your issue. I think each time you connect the pump a spark will occur. Using either a test light or a volt meter can you measure voltage on the coils + terminal. I believe there should be a red and a pink wire on that terminal. The ignition switch has to be in the run or Start position for the voltage to be present at the coil.

[lookinglasstie]

I have a multimeter. I'll test for voltage tomorrow.

[lookinglasstie]

I followed a guide to test for voltage at the terminals by putting the negative probe on a grounding point and the positive on each of the terminals (pink wire, red wire). I got no voltage on both of them.

[dinghyguy]

did you test all 5 of the wires coming towards the ignition switch?

the brown should be hot all the time since it is fed from the battery.
the pink and black should be hot when the car is running and the key is ON
the red should be hot when starting the car (starter motor), key to START

if the power is not getting to the ign switch then look upstream (is the bat flat??)
if the power is not getting through the ign switch hen either replace or rebuild the ign switch.

dinghyguy

[lookinglasstie]

I tested the contacts on the ignition switch and the pink was not getting any voltage, while the others were in their respective positions. I tried working out a quick solution and ran a jumper wire from the blue with black stripe wire which was receiving 12 volts in run position, to the pink wire leading to the coil. I got all my dash lights and my horn back on the next key turn! I have yet to try to start the car or check for spark yet, as I wanted to consult with you all if this is a safe or workable temporary fix. I have the battery disconnected and the coil disconnected as well, because I know its possible to burn the coil out with constant voltage. I have been sitting on this issue for months so even getting to see my dash lights and horn work again is worth a major thank you, wiring in cars really confuses me and now that I know it's as simple as the pink wire not getting voltage at the ignition switch really puts me at ease.

[dinghyguy]

progress is always good....

Have you downloaded the wiring diagrams from the library section of Mirafiori? if not you should.

looking at the ignition diagram the blue black and pink wires should be connected to the same terminal on the ign switch. From your reply it sounds like they may not be. I suggest you tell us exactly which color comes into one side of the connector and which color it goes out as to the switch so we can confirm the wiring makes sense with respect to the wiring diagram. Of course you can do that as well after you download the diagram and just ask us for confirmation.

have fun
dinghyguy

[spider2081]

Are you talking about a 1979 Spider?? I'm not sure there is a 1979 wire diagram on the web. I think the 1980 carburetor diagram is the same.

If you are I believe the ignition switch has 2 Hot all the time wires. The brown wire from the battery+cable at the starter motor solenoid's battery post. Also the black wire that connects the alternator output post to the ignition switch. There is another wire that connects the alternator output post to the same battery post on the starter solenoid. This connects the alternator to the cars electrical system. Therefore the alternator output post is connected to the battery + terminal.

I believe you ignition switch has a 6 cavity connector about 8 inches from the back of the ignition switch. This connector is often troublesome. At that connector do you have 12 volts present with the ignition switch in the "run" position probing Brown wire and then the black wire side if the pins on the ignition switch side of the connector??
If so turn the ignition switch off and the power should still be present.
Turn the ignition switch to the "on" position and the blue/black wire should then have power from the brown input wire.
With the ignition switch in the "on" position the pink wire should have 12 volts from the black input wire.
With the switch in the "start" position every terminal in the connector should have 12 volt power.

This should apply to a 1979 Car with the factory Sipea ignition switch but not to all spiders
If you have joined Mirafiori.com you might download or read the Fiat Publication " Spider 2000 Electrical Diagnostic Manual 1980-1981". I found the wire diagrams in this manual and circuit descriptions to be very helpful.