Tune up specs

[Torxx]

Just put my engine back togather: new 34 adf carb, 1800 intake, new plugs, wires, dist cap, etc., no more emmisions equip.

my tech manual says that lidle should be less than 1000 rpm (900 I think). We can't get idle below 1500 without shutting down.

We adjusted the settings on the carb, and used a timing light / adjusting the distributor.

Any suggestions on seting the timing, etc...

[TJC]

We adjusted the settings on the carb, and used a timing light / adjusting the distributor.

Any suggestions on seting the timing, etc...

I don't understand, you had already used a timing light to adjust the distributor, but you still need help on timing? If you're asking about what's the best optimal ignition timing, that a hotly debated question that also depends on the the type of ignition system, motor, and your motor's state of tune (i.e., compression modified from stock, etc.). As always, the safe bet is factory spec (0 - 10 deg BTDC, depending on year). For example, I have a stock '72 1608cc motor running with the later Marelli electronic dizzy (with a working vac advance) and I have my base timing set to 15 deg BTDC and I can still run on regular fuel.

[So Cal Mark]

is this a new carb, or someone else's castoff? Check the idle solenoid for power. Also check for a vacuum leak. Once you get the idle down below 1k, you need to reset the timing to 10btdc.

[Torxx]

It is a new carb. I have a 79 spider with 60k miles, good running condion. All changes are listed in the post. I am not the technician, so my description probably shows my lack of knowlede.

[mbouse]

i'm betting on a vacuum leak. you said all emissions equipment has been removed.....makes me think that a vacuum port has not been plugged.

[So Cal Mark]

does it have an idle cutoff solenoid?

[Torxx]

Yes to the idle shut off. and it is working.

i guess we will double check the vacuum connections. My setup has two vacuum connections. One from the distributor to the carb, and the other from the brake booster to the intake manifold.

Here's a before and after

[Torxx]

I'll try this again..

[So Cal Mark]

no wonder it won't run, there's a plastic cap on the carb!
Seriously, it looks great. I'd suggest routing that harness from the dist away from the exhaust though. Try just unseating the idle cutoff solenoid slightly and see if it will idle then. It may be jetted way too lean since it's new

[mbouse]

i'd suggest either replacing the exhaust heat shield, or shielding the dizzy from the heat in some other form... like ceramic coating?


and yeah. great looking work.

[Torxx]

The white wire from the distributer has been replaced with a new one, and is now routed away from the exhaust man.

thanks

[mdrburchette]

It doesn't look like your dist cap is secure. Of course, it won't start anyway cuz the engine compartment is too clean! Beautiful work.

[pope]

Boy, that cam belt looks awful skinny. I think someone is cutting them in half and selling two.

[Torxx]

Those are recent photos, but, prior to actually starting the engine.

[danaspider]

Nice looking install. I did a similar mod this winter. The vacume may be a problem, as mentioned before. The idle valve, when I had problems kept me from idling. Have you checked that the choke is working correctly. The linkage could be sticking and not letting it release fully as the car warms up. Is there any difference in the idle speed at cold start and then as it warms up?