Questions regarding oil pressure

tetrah · Post by **tetrah** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 9:25 pm

What kind of oil pressure should a '78 Spider run? Mine runs about 17 lbs idling at 2000 RPM and 35 lbs at highway speed with the engine warm. There is an after market gauge measuring the oil pressure. Also, is it normal for the engine to be idling at 2000 RPM?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 9:39 pm

the oem gauges are notorious for reading low, hence the aftermarket gauge that's been installed. The reading you're getting hot is decent.

The idle speed should be about 900-1000rpm when hot. Check to make sure the choke is fully open when hot.

tetrah · Post by **tetrah** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:54 pm

Thank you, Mark, for your time. We changed the oil with 10-40 and took it for a 8-10 mile drive. When we got back it showed about 10 psi on the gauge. This was at about 1000-1200 rpm. I'm afraid the bearings may be bad because the outside temp here is only about 55 degrees. What will it be on a 100 degree day? We're still trying to decide if the car is worth fixing up to be a daily driver. It pops out of 4th gear, which we can drive around. It has rust on the body and the paint is bad and has a couple 4-5 inch holes in the floorboards. It needs brake pads/rotors, balljoints, and some exhaust work(I guess about $500 total). On the other hand, it is a complete car and everything works including the gauges, wipers, defroster, lights and it runs well and has new tires. It was missing badly until I figured out that the metal-backed heat shielding under the hood was touching the distributor and causing it to short out! It doesn't smoke or appear to use oil, either. The frame seems good, and the shock towers are good. We bought it on ebay for less than $1000. I don't want to spend $4000-5000 on it and have it worth $2500 after I'm done. Any advice?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:42 pm

well, you've raised several issues in your last post. First, I use either 20/50 or 30 in any engine I think may be loose or worn. 10/40 is still pretty thin. Does it knock when first started cold? If the pressure comes up at 2500-3000 rpm I wouldn't be overly concerned with the 10psi at idle.
As for the rusty floor, it can be repaired without replacing the floor pan. Cut some sheet metal and either weld it in or pop rivet in place. Seal the seams or fiberglass it.
As for the value of the car, no car will ever be worth what you put into it to restore. If you're looking at just flipping the car to make some money, put as little as possible into it. If you want to fix the car and drive it, don't concern yourself with what someone else would pay for it.

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:40 am

I also run straight 30 in my worn out Fiat. On my rebuilt engine my gauge was showing the same pressure as yours and it concerned me since I just sunk vast amounts of money in it so I temporarily hooked a mechanical gauge to it. It showed up to 85lbs pressure. It is important to make sure the oil light comes on with the key and stays off while idling and driving. That part of the gauge is quite accurate!

ga.spyder · Post by **ga.spyder** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:53 pm

You brought up the 4th gear issue .I had the sme problem ,which is pretty common. You can drive it as is for a time.The rebuild on mine was less than 1000.It can go a lot higher ,depending on condition of rest of tranny.It is smooth as silk now! The money was well spent. Craig