intake manifold removal

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 9:23 pm

Gotta better performance project in line for the '80 Spider. am gonna purchase a 32/36 carburetor. have a '76 manifold ready to bolt up.

the trouble is, i cannot figure out how to get my hands and or tools into the proper position to remove the fasteners to get the old manifold out. the old carb is out of the way, and so is the dipstick. i still cannot see three of the six fasteners, much less get a tool on the fourth.

I am seriously contemplating using a saws all to chop the thing into pieces.

to keep me from doing that, does anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed with this removal?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 9:47 pm

not a real easy job, but a sawzall would create enough havoc to engine!
removing the starter opens things up alot, but working from underneath with a long extension and a swivel socket is mandatory

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 12:45 pm

although the saws-all was just a comment of frustration.......and the mindset that i should retain usefullness of the parts.

i do intend NOT to attempt to salvage the old manifold. any vacuum, pretty colored hoses are history. So is that funky little ?heat pad? on the firewall side of the manifold. if anyone was drooling over the possibility that an '80 manifold was soon to be on the market....forget it.

this manifold will be worth zip when i am through removing it.

i will attempt to remove the alternator, and some garbage off the firewall before i go for that starter. i've heard it is a chore in itself to out & in.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:28 pm

you could just undo the timing belt and exhaust flange and lift the cyl head off. It's probably quicker to do it that way.

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 5:06 pm

i'll keep that in mind.

i'm gonna giver another go tonight. removing the alternator and emissions garbage from the fender.

racydave · Post by **racydave** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 5:55 pm

Mike,you Do not have to remove alot of extra stuff!!!! Look at your replacment intake, it will show you where all the bolts are. Get a swivel, and approiate extension,apply tape or shrink wrap to stiffen it up, close your eyes and do by brail. You will need to block off the front water passage, I used a angle bracket with only sealer (RTV) and a bolt, the protruding angle will retain your dip stick(w a hole in it). YOUCANDOOIT!!!

FrameShift · Post by **FrameShift** » Sat Oct 28, 2006 1:47 am

Mike,you Do not have to remove alot of extra stuff!!!! Look at your replacment intake, it will show you where all the bolts are. Get a swivel, and approiate extension,apply tape or shrink wrap to stiffen it up, close your eyes and do by brail.

Totally agree, but you will need a range of universal couplings, different lengths extensions, and the wobble ended ones are a help. I can't honestly see how taking the starter off would help much, maybe the brake servo, but there is room. Biggest problem was removing the two upper studs to allow the manifold to move sideways and clear the timing belt cover. Putting the new one back is a breeze, especially if you put the two studs back in the front and back holes as this supports the manifold for putting the bolts in the other four holes. If anyone wants any of the emissions stuff, all in good condition as far as I can make out and can stand shipping costs from UK, shout.

Brian.

bandit · Post by **bandit** » Sat Oct 28, 2006 2:03 am

Mike

Instead of removing the manifold just bolt the 76 carb to it
thats how i did it on mine and it runs much better i promise you'll
like the larger carb on the manifold no 1 here does it that way and
i don't understand why it's not done more .
I did have the 76 monifold just incase but after installing the carb to
try it out i was like why waste my time so i sold it to Torxx .

Daniel

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Sat Oct 28, 2006 4:27 pm

Dave,

thanks so much for the phone call. the mention of the extra bolt saved the day. Turns out the 2L carb'd intake manifold has seven fasteners, not six.

now that it is off.....i look at my cowling, and am amazed at how many tools i used in my finally successful extraction. removing all of the extranious emissions garbage was a major help.

Mark Allison.....send me an email with your address, and, at my expense i will ship you the egr valve, that heat transfer pod, and what ever that thing is on the fender. Maybe you can use some of it for an emissions dependant vehicle.

Free to anyone.....one boat anchor.....i mean 2L intake manifold.

for sale..real cheap..one 28/32 ADHA carburetor.

for sale..real cheap..one 4-1 stock exhaust manifold and corresponding down pipe for a three bolt flange cat system....off the 2L of course.

tonysfiat · Post by **tonysfiat** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 7:39 pm

Mike

Can you bring me up to speed on your project, ie: replacing the 28/32ADHA carb. Are you complete and if you are what are the results.

Tony

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 7:54 pm

I'm stuck at the securing the replacement carburetor stage. I had a source for a rebuilt one, and for some reason that has been delayed. I am tomorrow calling on a brand new 32/36 DFEV Weber.

I am dying to get this thing off the blocks and onto the road before Mr. Salt Truck spews his carnage of corrosion.

Believe it or not, the intake came off quite well after I removed all of the emission stuff that was in the way. The manifold went on quite well when the time came. Together with a 4-2 exhaust manifold and a 2-1 down pipe off a 1973 engine......i anticipate quite the improved performance.

I certainly will report all perceived and realized changes as soon as I get that carb mounted and tuned in. Of course, I will be adding a easy breathing air filter system at the same time. Nuts on the stock unit.

racydave · Post by **racydave** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 9:11 pm

Mike, how did you seal the extra water outlet? And, did you replace the hoses on the cyclonic trap thingie? Will you run the hose to the new airbreather assbly from the trap? You could also tee the canister hose to it to suckup evaporating hydrocarbons.

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 12:57 pm

Dave,

That extra inlet is not water, it is exhaust gases from the other side of the block. It is just yawing open. kinda u-g-l-y but my engine bay isn't pretty anyway. The exhaust side is open as well.

The coolant system holds a full belly, so i am sure.

Yes, the cyclonic trap was dismantled, new hoses installed, and a new brass flame trap is ready for the new carburetor.

Still interested in how to hook up the two remaining charcoal canister hoses.

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 3:33 pm

So, i've received the new 32/36 DFAV, electric choke Weber Carburetor. it has one fuel line connection, and the dizzy advance connection. that is it. there are NO emissions connections of any kind.

Good thing, cuz the only left over connections after I changed the manifold and blocked unnecessary items off are from the charcoal canister. Those will be blocked, eventually. The only thing the charcoal canister is doing right now is collecting fumes from the gas tank. There is no fuel return from the carb either.

Change the accelerator linkage, and make a gasket is all that is left. bolt 'er down, and add an air cleaner.

if you see a blue streak tomorrow, that will be me.....

racydave · Post by **racydave** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:21 pm

Mike, Id look at the "footprint". see if opening on carb and intake matches. It probably varies from diff vintages.

Check to see if you get Full throttle with gas pedal.