FIlling the holes on the bottom

[azygoustoyou]

I want to fill the holes in the floor pans and on the bottom of the car. I would also like to add some thickness to some areas that seem to be getting thin. I was thinking of using body soldier. It is lead based and the tensile strength is 6140 psi. Does anyone think there is a better way? I appreciate your thoughts.

[baltobernie]

If you're going to all this trouble to get down to bare metal, I'd suggest welding in patches from the outside (underside), then sealing the inside original circular opening with seam sealer. The only lead filler I'm familiar with is the "old school" stuff used in Detroit long ago to smooth the outer body joints. This stuff was never designed to be structural, and I don't think it's available today. Frankly, even if it was, I wouldn't use it; lead fumes are quite toxic. Here is a lead-free product for use on vintage cars, but it, too is not structural. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?item ... pe=PRODUCT

[racydave]

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/index.php good info http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?item ... temID=1397 sood source for supplies, good tutorials also. We use Durabond to fill ground welds. Its water-proof and workable. On the body, filler and glaze were used on top of the Durabond.

[azygoustoyou]

The bottom isn't that bad to where I would have to weld metal to cover the holes. I was looking at the soldier from Eastwood CO. I figured it would give the areas where the holes are some sturdiness while filling the holes in. I really don't need structural support. They also have the lead free soldier. Thanks for the site info. on metal works.

[Curly]

I'd be cutting out the holed and thin sections and welding in patches of the same size. Then you can grind down the welds, apply seam sealer inside and out, and it will be as good as new.

[azygoustoyou]

Thanks Curly,
Looks good!