Ignition Problem?

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 12:05 pm

Hey,

I need some help. My 82 Spider will run fine and then once it get warm or up to the normal temperature approx. 5 miles the engine will stall when I stop at a stop light. It will whirl a lot but I'm usually just able to get it started but it starts hards and runs very rough, skipping, etc. I rev it to keep it running and limp home. After it cools it will start right up and run smooth. I replaced the coil, ingnition module and still the problems is there. I'd really appreciate some advice.

Thanks in advance.
Bill

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 2:38 pm

have you checked the pickup unit in the dist? It sounds like a module problem, but if replacing it didn't change the situation I'd check the pickup

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:12 am

Thanks Mark... I'll check it out.

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 4:42 pm

I was wondering about what I discovered so far.

My coils ohm reading was about 8,000 ohms and the book say it should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Do you think this is producing a weak spark? Should I put in a spare I have it reads 12,000 ohms?

I spoke with Intl Auto and they were reluctant to sell me parts I may not need and suggested it may be an engine temperature sensor stuck open which causes a fuel delivery problem, flooding or very rough running. At the moment it won't start and seems to be firing very weak. Do you think the coils too weak which won't fire the plugs enough and then floods.

I appreciate any thoughts. The books mentions that a novice which I surely am would think fuel when its ignition so I'm confused where to start replacing parts.

thanks,
Bill

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 10:11 pm

if you have a spare, by all means give it a shot. Have you removed the plugs to check for for wetness? A failed temp sensor can prevent starting or completely foul the mixture up, that's true. You can put a resistor in place of the temp sensor for testing, that way the mixture will be fixed at a set point. If you're not sure about spark strength, remove a spark plug, ground the base with the plug wire attached and crank the engine. You should be able to see the spark jump across the electrode. Just a word of caution if you do this, disconnect the fuel injector plugs so they don't fill the cyls with gas

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 9:26 am

I tried a different coil and it whirls over but barely fires and not enough to catch and start. I haven't removed the plugs to see if they are wet but will do that next. I can smell gas after trying to start. Would a failing engine temperature sensor cause it not to start when the engine is cold? I take it tells the fuel injection to send the exact amount of fuel to start.

I have the Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management Book and on section 4 page 15 it confirms what you say. "A faulty engine tmep sensor can affect pulse-time signals to the injectors in all plused systems, leading to lean running when cold, or rich running when warm. Make resistance checks at the temperature sensor as shown in Fig. 4-1. See table B for temperature sensor resistanance values based on sensor temperature.

For a more accurate test, remove the switch and cool or warm it in water as necessary. The table shows that I should get a ohm resistance reading of 2000-3000 ohms when the temperature sensor is at 68 degrees and 250-400 ohms at 176 degrees. The idea you gave about removing sensor and putting in a resistor... what do you mean? Sorry to be so dumb... but I like your idea and need to know more about how to do it.

Recap: The problem in the beginning was it would run great but when I drove it 3 miles or so and came to a stop it would stall and have a real hard time to restart it whirled quite a bit before it caught and then ran very rough. This happened about 3 times before it got to a point where it started running bad even when the engine was cold. Now it won't start period.

Thanks for your help.
Bill

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 10:11 am

it sounds like a bad ignition module

John Donohue · Post by **John Donohue** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 8:08 pm

I have several postings going back several months - about the same dang problem - exhibiting the same behavior as yours - they are likely posted under electrical issues...... I tried replacing the ignition switch, coil, solenoid, wires, plugs etc. The one thing that I didnt do is get a new ignition module.....took it to the shop, and.....you guessed it....bad ignition module......they replaced it and it runs great now.....good luck....

Ignition Problem?

Ignition Problem?

Agree - I just went through this too...