Is this a Lada switch?

[SteinOnkel]

Hey guys,

please see the pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/UQuSSIj

Is this an OEM switch or one from a Lada? I ask because a) it's broken and I want to get the right replacement and b) in the electrical wiring multi-parter Zachwrac writes

"While this configuration will work, it has, in my mind, a flaw. It leaves as the ONLY function of the large gauge brown wire feeding the starter while cranking. ALL other power now routs from the smaller gauge black feed through a single set of contacts in the ignition switch to the loads. I believe this may be a cause of premature failure of these switches many have experienced?"

That is EXACTLY how my car is currently wired.

What year make model Lada switch can I replace this with? Waiting a few weeks for the part is fine, I would just really like to avoid paying $80 for a switch where the vendor states "Yeah, they don't really last all that long"

Thanks
Steiny

[spider2081]

I think that switch is an aftermarket switch probably a Lada switch. The reason I believe this is I'm pretty sure that a 1978 Spiders original ignition switch would have the wires soldered to the electrical portion of the switch and about 8 inches from the switch would be a white nylon connector. the connector would have 6 cavities with 5 being used. If the original nylon connector is still in your car I would recommend looking for a good serviceable Sipea (original) ignition switch. Mechanically, physically they are better quality. The lock on a Sipea switch uses 5 tumblers where the Lada uses 3. The Sipea switch uses 2 sets of contacts for the "Run or on" position of the switch and the Lada uses only one. Finally the steering wheel lock on Lada switches is slightly longer than the Sipea switches making them more difficult to remove and replace into the steering column.
The photo shows push type connections on the ignition switch. Early Sipea switches had this style connections but somewhere around 1975 was when the soldered connections were introduced.

The shinny metal cover would have Sipea stamped into it and also the electrical portion would have it molded into it. The lada has Roman numerals stamped into the shinny cover.

Hope this helps

[SteinOnkel]

I think you hit the nail on the head. There is no white nylon connector, just some janky crimp connectors.

Well it's broken anyways. A Lada switch from China is $10 w/ keys and shipping...so tempting...will need to replaced in a year, no doubt.

Cheers
Steiny

[aj81spider]

My switch had been replaced by a Lada switch, which also has the issue of being wired so one of the contacts that is switched on the Sipea is always on on the Lada. Whoever replaced it didn't realize that and the battery would go dead in less than a week if left connected.

I put in a full set of relays and took all the load off the switch. I'm hoping that will make the switch last forever. It did fix the dead battery problem.

[DieselSpider]

My switch had been replaced by a Lada switch, which also has the issue of being wired so one of the contacts that is switched on the Sipea is always on on the Lada. Whoever replaced it didn't realize that and the battery would go dead in less than a week if left connected.

I put in a full set of relays and took all the load off the switch. I'm hoping that will make the switch last forever. It did fix the dead battery problem.

Using relays to take the load off the switch is in my plans. I already put a relay between the ignition switch and the starter with the benefit already evident as the 2 kw starter on the Diesel now has lasted for years instead of having the solenoid burn out in less than a year.

[SteinOnkel]

I just learned that the relay-tray I have in the passenger footwell is not factory. The dpo said that the car had been professionally rewired by a Fiat specialist. Very possible he installed that piece. There's quite a bit of clicking going on when you turn on the ignition.

All the electrics work great, save for the switch. Oh and the gauges read high when you turn on the lights. Anybody know what that might be? Ground issue is my guess.

[spider2081]

Oh and the gauges read high when you turn on the lights.

Often when the gauge reading increases when the lights are turned on it is caused by a ground. Example the dash light in the water temperature gauge and the instruments ground are shared by a tap riveted to the back of the instrument. The instrument dash light sockets have a single wire contact for the light power and the ground comes from the instruments case. The red Square warning lights have 2 wire light sockets One wire is the lights ground and the other wire is the lights power. I replaced the temperature gauge dash light socket with a 2 wire light socket, connecting the ground to the dash ground pod. This cured the proble of the temperature increasing when the lights are turned on.

[SteinOnkel]

What a stellar design choice

You wouldn't happen to have a part number for the sockets you used?

[dinghyguy]

I also found that replacing the bulbs with LED's reduced the gauge drift when the lights went on.
Not to mention the gauges were brighter....
On the temp sensors i also thing cleaning the contacts to the sensors is a good idea.

cheers
dinghyguy

[SteinOnkel]

Do you have a link? Are they the same color as stock?

[dinghyguy]

I got mine from superbright led
I did change all the bulbs to 194 base style
I also used bi directional ones and got one for courtesy light
I used warm white red green and blue to suit
I did the fibre optic bulb as well
Only one i left was battery bulb cause it is needed for restance in alt circuit
Some pix in my posts under restoration projects

Cheers
Dinghyguy

[spider2081]

You wouldn't happen to have a part number for the sockets you used?

Sorry I do not have the part number. I used a couple of used one I pulled from a parts car. The light sockets for the seatbelt and brake warning light have 2 wire terminals. If you are are careful you can solder a ground wire to the the original socket without melting it.