inputs and outputs 95 amp alternator regulator
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MrGreen
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue Jun 23, 2015 5:22 pm
- Your car is a: 1980 Spider 2000
inputs and outputs 95 amp alternator regulator
I have a 1980 fiat spider w FI. It has had major rewiring in the past. It presently has one of the autoricambi 95 amp alternators. The car runs completely off the battery,alternator is turning but not producing. I checked the voltage on the green and white wires on the voltage regulator while the car is running and there is no voltage in or out of either one. What should those values be? Is the regulator toast?
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SteinOnkel
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2019 9:31 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider 1800
Re: inputs and outputs 95 amp alternator regulator
Take it out of the car and get it tested at your local auto parts store.
Also, I had a similar issue a few weeks ago, here's my last post in that thread:
"And sorted!
Had the alternator tested at Autozone and to my avail it was fine. Replacement would've been $65, but no that would be easy...time to tackle some jankerton Fiat wiring. The wiring on this car has been redone by a "professional" on the previous owner's behalf. Whoever did it really lends truth to the fact that anyone you pay to do something can call themselves a professional.
Anywho, it turned out that they had simply removed all the bulbs for the hazard indicator, Seatbelt light and Brake warning light. Well, these are wired into the same circuit as the warning light for the alternator. This I only know because of the excellent wiring diagrams that were provided in another thread.
That was part of the issue and the rest was the fact that I disconnected the two switches underneath the manifold. One of them has keyed +12v on it and as soon as I connected that to a load (namely my new electric fuel pump) everything is gucci. 13.0V at idle, 13.8 at 1800 rpm with a battery that spent three days connected to a very nice 55amp battery charger.
Everything works MUCH better now. The turn signals and wiper are much faster, the gauges read more accurately etc.
Cheers
Steiny"
The wiring diagrams are in mirafior's library.
Good Luck
Also, I had a similar issue a few weeks ago, here's my last post in that thread:
"And sorted!
Had the alternator tested at Autozone and to my avail it was fine. Replacement would've been $65, but no that would be easy...time to tackle some jankerton Fiat wiring. The wiring on this car has been redone by a "professional" on the previous owner's behalf. Whoever did it really lends truth to the fact that anyone you pay to do something can call themselves a professional.
Anywho, it turned out that they had simply removed all the bulbs for the hazard indicator, Seatbelt light and Brake warning light. Well, these are wired into the same circuit as the warning light for the alternator. This I only know because of the excellent wiring diagrams that were provided in another thread.
That was part of the issue and the rest was the fact that I disconnected the two switches underneath the manifold. One of them has keyed +12v on it and as soon as I connected that to a load (namely my new electric fuel pump) everything is gucci. 13.0V at idle, 13.8 at 1800 rpm with a battery that spent three days connected to a very nice 55amp battery charger.
Everything works MUCH better now. The turn signals and wiper are much faster, the gauges read more accurately etc.
Cheers
Steiny"
The wiring diagrams are in mirafior's library.
Good Luck
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spider2081
- Patron 2024
- Posts: 3015
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:45 pm
- Your car is a: 1981 Spider 2000
- Location: Wallingford,CT
Re: inputs and outputs 95 amp alternator regulator
i believe the voltage regulator has a yellow wire, a wire/black wire and a green/black wire. The yellow wire connects to the alternators output. So it should have battery voltage on it when ever the battery is connected in the car. The white black wire jumps back to the field connection of the alternator. The green/black wire connects to the violet black wire from the battery warning light wire from the original Fiat wiring. Often this is a violet /black wire.
With the ignition switch in the off position the yellow wire should have battery voltage on it. When the engine is running and the alternator working the yellow wire is connected to the alternators output so it should be measuring between 13.7 and 14.5 volts. The white /black wire's voltage depends on the demand on the alternator. I would expect it to be above 8 volts at idle.
The violet /black wire should measure close to zero volts with the key on and engine off. It should measure close to alternator output voltage when the engine is running.
Hope this helps
With the ignition switch in the off position the yellow wire should have battery voltage on it. When the engine is running and the alternator working the yellow wire is connected to the alternators output so it should be measuring between 13.7 and 14.5 volts. The white /black wire's voltage depends on the demand on the alternator. I would expect it to be above 8 volts at idle.
The violet /black wire should measure close to zero volts with the key on and engine off. It should measure close to alternator output voltage when the engine is running.
Hope this helps