High beam

[BS9ider]

Hi, I now have all lights working on my 77 apart from high beam. When I move the stalk down to engage high beam or pull towards me to flash there's nothing. Any thoughts on what to check please? Cheers

[spider2081]

Have you checked the headlight bulbs?
Have you checked the hi beam fuses?

[BS9ider]

Thank you, not yet. I've ordered a Haynes manual and awaiting delivery. Do you know which fuses pls?

[BS9ider]

Checked the fuses and all look ok. There's only one bulb in the headlamp. Assuming this isn't like my new VW which has bulbs for high and low beam?

[spider2081]

Correct there is a Hi beam and a Lo beam filament in each headlight bulb
Fuses 3 and 4 are the hi beam fuses fuse 5 and 6 are the lo beam fuses. It is not uncommon for the fuses to loose their connection to the clips in the fuse box.

[BS9ider]

After checking with a multimeter I have no voltage at fuses 3 and 4 when the stalk is down for hi beam. I do have voltage at 5 and 6, and the low beam lights work fine. Do I therefore need to replace the stalk controls as I have a faulty high beam switch?

[spider2081]

It could very well be the steering column switch assembly. This is a common failure when there are no hi beam with the lever in the down position. However to have no hi beams with the lever down or pulled back to the flash position is not as common. There are 2 separate hi beam switches for theses features. So that would mean you have 2 failures. Totally possible just not as probable.
I'm assuming the hi beam indicator in the speedometer is not working either.

I suggest one more test: Unplug the 2 pin headlight connectors on the fender wells under the hood. the connectors have a gray/black and green black wire on the drivers side and a green and gray wire on the passenger side. Again measure the voltage at fuses 3 and 4. If you get voltage with the connectors separated and it disappears when they are connected it indicates poor switch contacts.
Installing the headlight relay kit protects the steering column headlight switches. So its a great modification as its much less costly then the steering column switch assembly If you replace the column switch I would consider installing the relay mod kit.

[BS9ider]

I unplugged the connections and still had no voltage at the fuses. Also I note I have 0.5v at the low beam fuses 5/6. Does this seem correct? Checked the meter at the battery and had 12v

[spider2081]

If your lo beams are lighting then you should be measuring battery voltage on the top and bottom of fuses 5 and 6 . If you are not measuring voltage and the lights are lit I would suspect either the ground you are using for the meter is not good or the cars wiring has been modified.
I like to use the clip holding the signal flasher or the grounding pod above the ignition switch for the meter ground. Do you have an alligator clip on your meter leads to clip it onto the ground you choose??

[BS9ider]

Thank you, will try that.

I thought I would pull out the headlamp and inspect the bulb. I was surprised at what I saw. I have a sealed glass lamp, no way to change the build. Embossed in the glass is the GE Mark. I guess the high beam element could be burned out. Is this original spec? The Haynes manual states I should be able to remove the bulb but that's impossible. Thoughts please guys? New H4 lamps etc?

[ORFORD2004]

General Electric sealed beam probably still availlable at your local store.

[DieselSpider]

Thank you, will try that.

I thought I would pull out the headlamp and inspect the bulb. I was surprised at what I saw. I have a sealed glass lamp, no way to change the build. Embossed in the glass is the GE Mark. I guess the high beam element could be burned out. Is this original spec? The Haynes manual states I should be able to remove the bulb but that's impossible. Thoughts please guys? New H4 lamps etc?

You did remove the bulb when you removed the old style sealed beam unit. I still believe that's the best way to build them since every time you replace them you get a new reflector and lens all nice and sanitary clean and it does not cost $1,000 per lamp housing to make them like new again just $11 each to match OEM.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/syl ... 7CL3*15644

Imagine what its going to be like dealing with today's halogen housings in another 20 or 30 years where you might need to take out a second mortgage to replace a cloudy or cracked lamp on a classic car from the year 2000. The newer cars will probable make it moot as manufacturers are adding corn and other plant fiber bases along with using vegetable oils in the plastics so the plastic parts will bio-degrade and dissolve before the cars get old enough to become classics.

[BS9ider]

Thanks guys, good shout. Yep just checked and I can pick up locally.