Bleeder Screw

[jlw35]

Sheared bleeder screw off the caliper (flush with the surface). Best way to extract??
Concerned because the metal the caliper is made from seems like it could be easily damaged, not earth-shattering problem as a rebuilt caliper is not that costly, still...

Jeff

[Funcar]

You might want to search this topic out as it seems a regular problem with old calipers. This also happened to me and the solution was to remove the caliper and take it to an auto machine shop were they drilled the old one out then tapped and put a new bleeder in. If you have the tools you can do this on your own workbench.

[micbrody]

I broke two of my four bleeder screws (actually, one was broken by very experienced car guy). I had tried all the "tricks": pbblaster, heat , high heat, high heat and then sudden cool; putting a nail in stuck bleeder screw hole so when gripping, less likely to crush ; ......blah blah blah.......

I never had work experience with cars; and the following worked great:

1) carefully extract broken bleeder screw; use the lumen as a guide for the extractor bit. If it still seems to be frozen, take a metal cutting bit and carefully and gradually enlarge lumen hole of bleeder screw remnant. At some point, integrity of broken bleeder screw will diminish and extractor will finish the job. During this entire first step: go slowly so you don't introduce metal shavings into caliper brake fluid cavity

2). Get Dorman bleeder screw repair (see bottom of post). Follow their directions; again be careful not to introduce metal shavings into caliper brake fluid cavity. From memory: you need to enlarge hole with a certain size metal bit; then create NPT threads; and then screw in the bleeder screw "receiver" from kit.
Though it sounds complicated, the second caliper took me, at most , 15 minutes to do entire process. Luckily, the caliper is made of a soft metal (aluminum ? Or aluminum alloy?). This makes it very easy to carve new threads by hand with NPT bit.


Or: buy a new/reconditioned caliper .......but no fun in that! And no guarantee it will work!!!!


http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman- ... /5012856-P

http://m.harborfreight.com/screw-extrac ... 61981.html



http://m.harborfreight.com/60-piece-sae ... 35407.html

(I only used NPT bit from kit; but with coupon I got it for $35; and kit has come in handy for other stuff)

[jlw35]

Thanks for the replies, always like trying things myself (thus the broken bleeder).
Jeff

[DieselSpider]

I have a rebuilt caliper on mine that supposedly came from IA and it had the brass bleeder repair kit in it however the brass and aluminum ate away at each other and the insert failed splitting at the threads. The corrosion from the brass onto the aluminum is so bad that a new kit can not be installed so the kit to me with the brass insert is a big looser. They should have just machined the caliper to take the next size up bleeder screw instead of putting brass on aluminum. The caliper is a loss now and not repairable unless I weld in the messed up hole that so I can machine it to original spec. The bleeder is too close to the brake hose port to put a larger sized kit in.

If you put the Doorman Kit on be very gentle about tightening it and be sure to put a rubber cap over the end of the bleeder screw to prevent water and contamination from getting inside it.

Too many mechanics toss the bleeder caps and do not finish the job by replacing them with new ones causing the problem with frozen bleeders. Many (possibly most) would be trouble free and easy to deal with just from ensuring that the caps are put back after a brake service.

[So Cal Mark]

the rubber cap on the bleeder has nothing to do with the bleeder becoming seized. The cap merely prevents dirt from plugging the bleeder. The outside threads on the bleeder become seized because you have two dis-similar metals mated together. When you install a bleeder the threads should be coated with anti-seize compound

[DieselSpider]

the rubber cap on the bleeder has nothing to do with the bleeder becoming seized. The cap merely prevents dirt from plugging the bleeder. The outside threads on the bleeder become seized because you have two dis-similar metals mated together. When you install a bleeder the threads should be coated with anti-seize compound

Life experience living in the road salt states shows otherwise. When salt water enters the bleeder it seizes more often than on one that is capped. And yes you do need to follow best practice and use the appropriate anti-seize compound without going overboard. The anti-seize can also help provide a better seal for vacuum bleeding. On the aluminum calipers I would be cautious about choosing an anti-seize compound and tend to shy away from the copper based ones especially if living in a road salt state or on the coast where the chances of increases galvanic reactions are higher due to the salt.

[So Cal Mark]

the rubber cap won't affect the threads at all, it only covers the tip of the bleeder

[spider2081]

the rubber cap won't affect the threads at all, it only covers the tip of the bleeder

I'm thinking the point here is the cap has a purpose and should be used. I have serviced many calipers and from experience expect a bleeder that has no rubber cap on it to be more difficult to remove than one that is properly capped. The moisture appears to fill the bleeder opening and sit in there. This causes corrosion at the base of the bleeder opening in the seat of the caliper fusing the bleeder to the its seat. When the bleeder is removed there is a sandy like material in the area where the bleeder has no threads. I have no reason to believe, if left over a long enough period of time, the corrosion would not grow up and into the threaded area of the bleeder and caliper.

I have had good luck assembling the bleeders with Silicone grease. The grease is compatible with brake fluids so even the seat area can be lubricated with the grease. I also apply it to the pistons, bores and seals when assembling calipers.

[DieselSpider]

the rubber cap won't affect the threads at all, it only covers the tip of the bleeder

I'm thinking the point here is the cap has a purpose and should be used. I have serviced many calipers and from experience expect a bleeder that has no rubber cap on it to be more difficult to remove than one that is properly capped. The moisture appears to fill the bleeder opening and sit in there. This causes corrosion at the base of the bleeder opening in the seat of the caliper fusing the bleeder to the its seat. When the bleeder is removed there is a sandy like material in the area where the bleeder has no threads. I have no reason to believe, if left over a long enough period of time, the corrosion would not grow up and into the threaded area of the bleeder and caliper.

I have had good luck assembling the bleeders with Silicone grease. The grease is compatible with brake fluids so even the seat area can be lubricated with the grease. I also apply it to the pistons, bores and seals when assembling calipers.

Precisely! A bleeder that is uncapped fills with water and rusts the threads from the bottom up. You need to protect them from water getting in at the top of the threads and from the center of the bleeder.