Help with brake lines

[aevansgatech]

Hey guys,

I've searched through and read some brake line posts but haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.

Here's the situation: I am doing the front brake rebuild kit (pads/rotors/flex lines) and have had no issues with pads or rotors. I got around to the flex lines last night and got the driver's side off with no issues, but the passenger side hard line fitting gave me trouble. I ended up breaking off the brake line fitting along with the old rubber line and a couple millimeters of metal brake line.

My question is if I can simply attach a new hard brake line fitting to the metal line or if I need to replace the whole hard line from the master cylinder to the wheel?

Other than the damage I caused, I have no reason to believe the existing hard lines have any leaks/issues.

[DieselSpider]

You might be able to. You need to slide a new flair nut onto the line where it is basically perfectly smooth and then double flair it using a flairing tool without splitting the line. If the line is old and brittle that is easier said then done. Compression fittings like you find in the plumbing isle of the local hardware store are not to be used on brake systems as they can too easily pop right off.

[kmoses]

I just replaced the three brake lines that come off the master cylinder. The one going to the drivers side caliper is the easy one to remove. Check with a few hydraulic hose and line shops and you will likely find one who also fabricate brake lines. The fittings are M10x1.25 line nuts with a non threaded lead in, the line is 4.75mm / 3/16" and the flare is bubble. Just take your old line with you. I paid $15 for the drivers side hard line.

[aevansgatech]

Thanks guys, so I think I've figured out the extent of the problem. DieselSpider, as you said, I might be able to put a new flair nut on the existing hard line and use a bubble flairing tool.

I'll try my luck getting a new fitting on there and then opt for a full hard line replacement

[gearhead63]

I was trying to replace the left front flexible line but the metal line coupling to it was frozen and ended up getting damaged. Removed the hard metal line, took it to a local auto parts store and they matched it for me. About $15 including the bending tool.

[gearhead63]

Actually, when I tried to install, I found they did not match the fittings. Seems nobody in town has or can order lines with the 10x1.25 fittings.. Anybody have a source for these?

[klweimer]

Good luck finding those lines locally. When I re-did my brake lines, I purchased a bunch of Edelmann adapters that go from the Italian brake fitting to a standard US 3/16 inverted flare fitting. Then you can buy brake lines all day long until you can bend one up that fits (maybe that was just my issue). The part number is 271330. Easily available on-line or lots of auto parts stores.

[DieselSpider]

The local O'Reilly Auto Parts says they stock metric brake lines in various lengths to 60" in standard or bubble flair.


Their web site indicates all sizes listed are available at my local store:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/searc ... rake+lines

[gearhead63]

I went to O'Reilly first. They do not have the rare (Fiat) 10mm 1.25 fittings. All the metrics on their web site are 10mm 1.0. Vick Auto and other Fiat suppliers will see a full set for about $100. Going to go with Edelmann adapter fittings from Amazon and use a standard 3/16 line.

[baltobernie]

These guys have the size fittings you seek. They also sell a copper-nickel hard line that I used throughout my restoration.

http://store.fedhillusa.com/

[aevansgatech]

I went ahead and bought a new proper fitting from autoricambi and am borrowing the metric bubble flairing tool. Hopefully I can get it on there with no issues!!

Another question has come up though: I currently have the calipers detached from the vehicle, soft brake lines disconnected, only the piston inside and the bleed screws are attached.

Is there a trick to getting the bleed screws out? I bought some replacements because the hex heads are slightly stripped and I want to replace them with pristine hex heads.

[aevansgatech]

Any advice on caliper and piston disassembly? I can't seem to remove the front caliper pistons or the bleed screws..

[baltobernie]

The steel bleed screws might be "welded" to the aluminum caliper by galvanic action. Once the entire caliper is disassembled, some heat may help break them free.

Pistons can get a "ridge" on their inner end, or corrosion due to moisture-laden brake fluid. Compressed air is often used to free them. But be careful you don't get a finger or two in the way when that sucker pops out!

[lglade]

If the calipers are off the car, then try fifteen seconds or so with a propane torch and a six-pointed socket to get the bleeders loose. After the bleeders are out, temporarily reinstall them and use an air gun with a rubber tip at the fluid inlet to "finesse" the piston out--I try to let some air leak out around the tip so that I have the minimum air pressure needed to get the job done. Like was said above, KEEP YOUR FINGERS clear or be prepared to lose one as the piston will come out like a bullet when it finally breaks free. A piece of wood to absorb the energy of the impact will help prevent damage to the piston.

The pistons on the rear calipers are threaded and require additional steps to get them out.

[aevansgatech]

Thanks for the tips guys!

I was finally able to loosen and replace the bleed screws after a few days with PBlaster. I never got the pistons out, but then again the brakes were fully functional, so I'm assuming the pistons aren't stuck in there. Is it even worth trying to remove them for any reason?

For now, I was able to get the new rotors and soft brake hoses installed, new pads, and media blasted calipers and caliper brackets!