Rocker panels, to rustproof or not?

[AriK]

Hi all,
Nothing in the archives about this, so i request some thoughts please.
These are images from another member on another thread. Judging from the cuts in his rockers they seem like almost air-tight spaces that trap humidity over time. We all know that Fiat never treated or painted any areas that we can't see. My car being a "northern car" and not knowing its history, i'm wondering what's the best way to shoot oil into this space. There's a rubber grommet in each wheel well however it seems that these entries will not allow a means of access to the entire rocker chambers.
What's the best procedure for preventive rust maintenance into a chamber that's been unprotected for 35 years? Should i strategically drill a couple of 3/8" access holes on the underside of the rocker in order to fit a spraying wand and then fill the opening with rubber grommets or am i being anal and should leave all well enough alone?

[azruss]

As you can see, the beam behind the rocker panel has 2 compartments. There are access holes at each end with a plug. First, be sure the drain holes are clean and free of debris. I did drill access holes under the door sill kick plate. This allowed me to inspect the damage. I took compressed air and blew it out as best I could. I then used a rattle can rust converter and sprayed it around as best i could. after letting that dry a week. I went in with a rattle can of rustoleum and sprayed the bottom and as much of the sides as i could get. This was the area of greatest water exposure. After painting, I went back and cleaned out the drain holes. Because it was so difficult getting good paint coverage, I shot compressed air into the tube immediately after spraying the paint to get a better spread. I decided not to use PORS as I have seen applications where it separated from the metal and formed a pocket for moisture.

[narfire]

Get a vacuum in there to get the flakes out. If you ever take the door cards of, vacuum the bottom of the doors as well.

I bought several cans of that Wurth wax type spray from IAP many years ago. I liked it and it seems to have worked but then again I don't usually drive in rainy conditions.

[AriK]

Get a vacuum in there to get the flakes out. If you ever take the door cards of, vacuum the bottom of the doors as well.

Getting the vacuum in there is the kicker, my rockers are intact and unopened, unlike the images i provided for illustration purposes only. I have already worked inside the doors in 2009 and cleaned out all the debris before spraying it all with Rust Check, drip, and then eventually non-drip. i did the rear quarter panel sills as well, and sprayed as much as i could ahead of the wheel humps.

As you can see, the beam behind the rocker panel has 2 compartments. There are access holes at each end with a plug. First, be sure the drain holes are clean and free of debris. I did drill access holes under the door sill kick plate. This allowed me to inspect the damage.

From what i understand the access holes at each end lead through the "inner" compartment, probably 3/8, maybe an inch wide. I did not see any drain plugs on the bottom, if they are not there i will re-drill new ones. How many are there, one at each end?
The access holes that you drilled under the sill plates, do they lead into the "outer" compartment? How large are they and how to vacuum out the debris? I can't imagine compressed air will expel all that debris. I'm leary about flushing it out with water because it will remain forever wet. These rockers are poorly designed in my opinion, not enough air circulation can get in there.
Btw, Por 15 is a great product, but not for this application because of access. If properly used with the degreasing step and then the etching step it will not separate from the surface. Steps 1 and 2 are crucial and must be repeated several times before applying the product. I swear by it, it stinks but it works

[azruss]

The drain holes are not really holes. If you look at the seam along the bottom of the beams, you will see small gaps along the seam. They look like sloppy work but are actually there to allow drainage and are open all the time. Because they are so narrow, they get plugged with debris and that is what traps water. When I did mine, i didnt have great confidence that i got all the metal covered. I just made sure i got the bottom covered. I built a fair weather arizona car, so didn't have to get too carried away.

[burgandy81]

I have thought about something like this.

http://www.eastwood.com/rustproofing-an ... ystem.html

First step (on my car) would be to try and clean out with detergent and pressurized hot water.
Second step would be a VERY long drive on a hot day to try and dry it out.
Third is to use similar setup as the Eastwood to try and get a rust converter into all relevant areas.
Last step would be to instal the coating system.

Any members from the UK have opinions on Waxoil systems?

[bradartigue]

I've learned that Spiders either have rusted out in these areas or they never will. Assuming you don't park the car outside or intentionally drive it in the rain or on treated roads you're probably in good shape. I certainly would not drill holes or cut away anything to inspect, you're just asking for rust.

[AriK]

I have thought about something like this.

http://www.eastwood.com/rustproofing-an ... ystem.html

First step (on my car) would be to try and clean out with detergent and pressurized hot water.
Second step would be a VERY long drive on a hot day to try and dry it out.

Sounds great! However in order to do that flush you must precede that first step with drilling out a few 1/2 inch drain holes on the bottom of the rocker for drainage. The stock drain slits just aren't sufficiently wide enough to pass debris. A tiny nail hardly fits in there.

So now we're drilling 3 drain slits on the underside of the rocker and another couple of access holes on top, (under the sill plate). It's at a minimum of 5 holes on your rocker so far. Obviously they will be capped with plastic grommets after the oil spray is complete. Although i'm somewhat okay with this, i'm seeking opinions on how folks feel about this being done on their car.

[124JOE]

I don't driver it in the winter and try not to in the rain
I see no reason not to do it

.joe

[AriK]

There's no way to prep the interior of the rockers for products such as Por-15 or equivalent. Without adequate prep that stuff is useless. I decided to shoot with Rust-Check by using the blower side of a Shop Vac while injecting the fluid through a tiny hose. Rust-Check is a thin rustproofing fluid which sprays far and flows easily into nooks and crannies.
First, however i vacuumed out the rockers by using a 7/8 clear hose. Then i inserted a magnetic line to pick up rust/metal/crud that the vacuum missed. Then i reversed thrust and blew air through the rocker. The access holes are about an inch wide in each wheel well covered by 35 years of dried up debris. With the tires removed, a the holes are big enough to shine a cell phone light while inspecting my progress.
This is what i used:
Shop-Vac part # 90687
Standard 2 1/2" fitting downsizing in increments to a minimum of 5/8"



7/8 clear tubing taped at the joints.


Flexible magnetic rod



Several tablespoons of un-needed cancer withdrawn:





Rust check injected into the tubing



This only takes care of the inner rocker panel. The outer rocker panel requires similar treatment with 1/2 inch holes (and 1/2 inch tubing) drilled in strategic places. Two of them will be covered by the door sill plate and a third one is on the bottom corner. The holes are plugged with body plugs filled with grease.



It's a messy job but i'm glad i did it. My rockers are solid but i'm not surprised what i pulled out of them. 35+ years is a long time for rust and debris to develop. It'll need several days to drip dry, but at least the residue is clean. Happy now

[RRoller123]

Very clever, highly motivated!

[spiderdan]

Great job AriK
Méticuleux mon chum!

[spider2081]

FWIW We use an inexpensive pump garden sprayer to apply rust proofing material in blind areas. Fabricate some metal tubing from metal brake line or other small metal tubing and adapt it to the sprayers wand. Drill holes, like in door pillar, so tubing fits through spray and then use rubber plugs to close holes. Good old fashion drain oil works very well.