Clutch Cable - threaded out
Re: Clutch Cable - threaded out
Thanks for that information Mark. I wouldn't have thought of lubing a new cable assembly. Hopefully the cable and accelerator pump diaphragm will go in by the weekend and I can take the car for a spin around the yard to check for functionality.
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- Patron 2020
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- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:00 pm
- Your car is a: 1973 Spider [sold]
- Location: Baltimore, MD
Re: Clutch Cable - threaded out
While you're under there, inspect the grounding strap between the transmission and body. If it is missing or corroded, the clutch cable becomes the system ground, causing premature failure of the cable (and probably some other bizzare things, too)
Re: Clutch Cable - threaded out
Ok, Ok, maybe my vision isn't that great while on my head with a flashlight in my teeth.
When I pulled the old cable completely off the car, it seemed to be in good condition with no binding. But, once the cable was removed, I could see that the repair in the firewall had bent. I replaced the reinforcement with a similar one (temporary fix until I have a chance to cut a piece of plate), hammered on the bent firewall that had been binding the pedal, and connected the a new cable. After adjusting the special nut at the clutch fork end, everything seemed to be in good working order!
After making a final adjustment, I depressed the clutch again and SNAP there goes the pedal to the floor! I was sure I had just broken the new clutch cable. I crawled under the dash again and found the pedal fork was now bent... and on further inspection that it had been previously repaired. Rather than try and repair it again, I ordered a new pedal which I will hopefully have time to install some evening this week.
The good news is that for a brief moment, I think everything was working smoothly and properly even without the clutch return spring in place (I'll have to seriously think if it is worth reattaching). Oh, and the ground strap looks to be in good shape as well.
When I pulled the old cable completely off the car, it seemed to be in good condition with no binding. But, once the cable was removed, I could see that the repair in the firewall had bent. I replaced the reinforcement with a similar one (temporary fix until I have a chance to cut a piece of plate), hammered on the bent firewall that had been binding the pedal, and connected the a new cable. After adjusting the special nut at the clutch fork end, everything seemed to be in good working order!
After making a final adjustment, I depressed the clutch again and SNAP there goes the pedal to the floor! I was sure I had just broken the new clutch cable. I crawled under the dash again and found the pedal fork was now bent... and on further inspection that it had been previously repaired. Rather than try and repair it again, I ordered a new pedal which I will hopefully have time to install some evening this week.
The good news is that for a brief moment, I think everything was working smoothly and properly even without the clutch return spring in place (I'll have to seriously think if it is worth reattaching). Oh, and the ground strap looks to be in good shape as well.
Re: Clutch Cable - threaded out
Sounds like youre ready for a new MIG welder, this could be the perfect excuse? Most of my "breakdowns" require some new tools. Do yourself a favor and add a ground strap eng to chassis cauz the original one aint much. I read somewhere to help install the clutch pedal spring, you load it with pennies between the coils to help in the install.
Re: Clutch Cable - threaded out
Joy! I finally had the chance to install the reinforcement plate in the fire wall along with the "new" clutch pedal. Rather than buying a mig welder (great suggestion!) I simply cut a piece of 1/4 inch plate, drilled a large hole for the clutch cable to pass through, and two smaller holes to screw into the fire wall. Not as pretty but functional.
I was happy to note that when I went to adjust the nut on the clutch fork, I was barely able to get the lock nut on the threads. This was a much better situation than running out of threads. I drove the car around the yard and it went into 1st easily and reverse adequately (sometimes had to release clutch or shift into 5th with clutch depressed before going into reverse). After a few circles, I readjusted the special nut on the clutch fork to reduce play and everything seems to be working great! Of course, I have only driven in 1st gear so far since my yard isn't big enough to go through the whole gear box - at least not without hitting a boat or two...
Thanks again for everyone's great advice!
Of course, I still haven't reinstalled that wonderful spring on the clutch pedal. I suppose I should do this to take advantage of it's superior engineering. Right now, I am just happy to have a working clutch.
I was happy to note that when I went to adjust the nut on the clutch fork, I was barely able to get the lock nut on the threads. This was a much better situation than running out of threads. I drove the car around the yard and it went into 1st easily and reverse adequately (sometimes had to release clutch or shift into 5th with clutch depressed before going into reverse). After a few circles, I readjusted the special nut on the clutch fork to reduce play and everything seems to be working great! Of course, I have only driven in 1st gear so far since my yard isn't big enough to go through the whole gear box - at least not without hitting a boat or two...
Thanks again for everyone's great advice!
Of course, I still haven't reinstalled that wonderful spring on the clutch pedal. I suppose I should do this to take advantage of it's superior engineering. Right now, I am just happy to have a working clutch.
- TulsaSpider
- Posts: 1547
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:33 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Spyder 124 2L
- Location: Tulsa, Ok
Re: Clutch Cable - threaded out
This is an extremely helpful thread! I have a few more things to inspect now! I sure don't want my clutch pedal to break or bend! That would be a bad day indeed! My clutch has worked very smoothly so I hope the PO had everything repaired correctly although they seemed to care less about having no speedometer!!
1978 Spyder 1800 make that 2L! Finally making real progress!
Re: Clutch Cable - threaded out
Oklahomanewbie,
It isn't so bad not having a spedo. Mine went out when doing other repairs and I haven't had the opportunity to determine what happened. Besides, your car never gets older if the odometer isn't turning - it stays young like most of the people on this forum.
It isn't so bad not having a spedo. Mine went out when doing other repairs and I haven't had the opportunity to determine what happened. Besides, your car never gets older if the odometer isn't turning - it stays young like most of the people on this forum.
- TulsaSpider
- Posts: 1547
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:33 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Spyder 124 2L
- Location: Tulsa, Ok
Re: Clutch Cable - threaded out
I suppose that's true! I am however a bit of a stickler for things working correctly!! I got that problem fixed! Now we are both aging again! On to the next problem! Mush mush!
Clark
Clark
1978 Spyder 1800 make that 2L! Finally making real progress!
Re: Clutch Cable - threaded out
i got in a little late on this one, but i had the exact same problem. DO NOT keep tightening the round nut at the bottom of the cable untill it returns i did that and it pulled about a 3 by 3in section out of the firewall from too much tension... get a new cable and make sure its not frayed... and that little piece of metal you talking about most likely is the problem