Brake Questions

[Mark_vaughn]

I am re-installing my brakes and started bleeding them. All is well except I can't get fluid to the rear pass corner.

Any ideas what might keep that corner from co-operating?

Also, my pedal travel seems very short. Maybe 3 inches. I can't remember if it was this way before. How far does your brake pedal travel? To the floor? Just a little way?

Thanks!

[So Cal Mark]

to get pressure to the rear brakes, you have to make sure the compensator is open. Disconnect the link and push it all the way to the top. Make sure the bleed screw isn't corroded shut; remove it and shine a light thru it or blow thru it.
pedal shouldn't go to the floor!

[newmanboy13]

im having a huge problem with my brakes. every now and then they will lock up. i have taken it to mechanics and they say its perfectly fine, but they have locked up like four times. what do i do?

[So Cal Mark]

are all 4 locking up at the same time or just one or two?

[manoa matt]

Remember the rear caliper piston has a hole in it that must be aligned or it won't bleed properly. The piston has a slot in the face that must be on the same side as the bleeder screw. If you are looking at the caliper and the bleeder screw is on the top, then the mark should be horizontal and on the top side.

[newmanboy13]

ussually only 1 or 2 but the other day all four locked up. and i did not know that, ill check that out as soon as i can.
i got them redone awhile back, so every time i have to stop relatively quickly my brakes will lock up a few minutes later. and if i let it set for a bit when i come back to get it, the brakes are free again.

[newmanboy13]

i was told it could be the brake booster...

[trippbannister]

Mark gave me some great advice here -- if you disconnect individual lines and push some air through with a compressor, you can ensure individual components are flowing freely.

i used the only compressor i had - a cheap emergency plastic one the plugs into the cig lighter. if you put a clean rag on one end of the line (or even at an open bleeder), and push air through from the other end, you can figure out if fluid is flowing pretty quickly (no need for a partner, either, though this would be helpful).

sure enough, i narrowed down my search and found that the rear center hose was blocked, causing the rear calipers to lock up. a new hose, and the brakes now work!

[So Cal Mark]

except that by filling the system with air, you also introduce moisture into the system. That dilutes the fluid and will cause rust. Brake bleeders separate the fluid from air with a diaphragm, for that very reason. Even fluid that has been exposed to air for a short time suffers dilution and should be flushed out

[trippbannister]

yes, clearly you need to do a good job bleeding after finding the blockage. i think i went through a full bottle and then some.

[newmanboy13]

all right. that should do it. thanks

[newmanboy13]

hey all i checked it out and it ended up bieng the brake booster needed an adjustment after i had replaced the master cyclinder i must have jacked that up a bit. runs great now.

[So Cal Mark]

thanks for the update and congrats on getting it working. Brake pushrod length is critical and pretty well overlooked when replacing parts

[newmanboy13]

yeah... i appreciate all the help im glad i found this site.

[newmanboy13]

alright so back again with same problem... aparently the pushrod was completly over looked when i had the brakes fixed, so now i was told i need a new brake booster, by the new mechanic i just found that is accually competent, and i ordered it from IAP but its been on back order for about 2 months... anyone got a booster?