Too many problems to mention, but...

[James2000Spider]

OK, rebuilt 32 ADFA on a 1600 mainfold for a 79 2000 CC. Sounds good so far? I have installed the electric choke on it. When running, definately runs stronger that the 28/32 ADHA.

However, same problem as before: hard to start, and won't start when engine is hot. Starter seems to drag. It will eventually start if jumped off. I have added additional ground to engine and cleaned the starter terminals. Also, I am getting smoke and an electrical smell from the starter while trying the longer starting episodes.

Just wondering if anyone has any similar experience with the difficulty starting?

[So Cal Mark]

sounds like you need to have the starter rebuilt, and soon

[James2000Spider]

Yep, that's what I was thinking, starter crapping out. OK, so, do I go ahead and rebuild the whole engine as long as I have to pull the starter? The engine rebuild has been on my mind anyway for the last few weeks. Got a "co-worker" that says he has the knowledge and the shop to rebuild an engine.

Dumb question, but how much would an engine rebuild cost if labor were not a cost factor? I guess it depends on how much you have to replace? I was planning on having the head rebuilt and machined, and replace any other problem areas such as the starter and the distributor/coils. Gotta get rid of the oil leaks as well.

Hey, anyone interested, this baby might be going up for sale. I am getting so frustrated with it!!!

Thanks for the quick reply Mark.

[So Cal Mark]

That's quite a leap; from a starter replacement to an engine rebuild. Sort of like stepping over a puddle to jumping the Grand Canyon!
If your engine is in serious need of repair, it would be a good time to do it, But that starter replacement is about a half hour job. The engine rebuild takes abit longer.
Approx cost-cylinder head rebuild $250-300, pistons- $300, rod and main bearings-$70, gasket set- $65, machine work- $400, oil and filter- $12, water pump-$35, oil pump- $150

[mbouse]

it'll sell a whole lot better if it has a properly functioning starter.....so do that anyway.

I have a used starter from a '74 that'll bolt right in. Offered it to a guy a couple of weeks ago for $10 plus shipping, and I know for sure it will fit into a US MAIL one rate box. So, if you are USA, i should be able to get it to you for $8.95 plus the $10. You'll not find a working starter for much less than that.

then, tell us where it is so we can do a visual inspection to determine "worth" or "value". if you are getting frustrated over a bad starter, then you may not be long in the hobby; a starter is a minor issue.

[James2000Spider]

I know sounds like I am whining a bit. But, I am getting so frustrated!! I bought a $1,500 car and I guess I expect it to run as new, I don't know.

Anyway, Mike, I think I will take your offer on the starter. I am in Birmingham, AL. Better to get at it from the bottom or top? The starter wire surgery went well from the top after removing the fuel pump. What do ya'll think the electrical smell is when the starter is used for longer than usual time?

OH, another piece of information: the battery has 12 to 13 volts showing, but the car will not start wthout a jump when the starter gets hot and begins dragging and smoking. Any clue on this one? Or is all of this starter related? I have a good ground from the engine block to the grounding grid on the passenger fender.

I am really anxious to begin actually use the Spider this summer for some "useful" trips to the grocery store or baseball practice.

Thanks for everyone's advice and help.

James

[So Cal Mark]

the smell is the windings burning up. The reason you need a jumper is that the windings are shorted, and it'll take 400-500 amps to turn the starter and that's more than 1 battery can produce. I know cars can be frustrating, especially when you can't figure them out. Try and be patient, $1500 cars usually need substantial repairs to be a driver. Stick with it, we'll help you through any issues you have

[mdrburchette]

Some people have pulled the starter from underneath by strategically positioning the wheels to make room. I ended up pulling it out of the top after removing the fuel pump. You'll need a swivel and long extension for your ratchet to access the top mounting bolt on the bellhousing. It's the one out of three that you can't see and have to remove be feel, but after much cursing, it's doable. Good luck!

[So Cal Mark]

I always remove them from the bottom, And a swivel 13mm is mandatory with a fairly long extension

[mbouse]

send me an email to mbouse@chartermi.net and we can get that starter shipped as early as noon tomorrow, if you can do Pay Pal.

[Torxx]

take care not to drop it on you head from underneath. the starter feels like it's filled with lead.

[manoa matt]

If you got oil leaking onto the starter then that could be the source of you starter problem. When the brushes become soaked with oil they become soft and produce a paste instead of dust when the starter is used. If the brushes are oil soaked the starter will drag and hesitate.

Take the starter out and take it to a local shop to be tested and cleaned. It shouldn't cost more than $30. While you got it out check for oil leaks on that side of the engine. The cam cover gaskets are notirious for leaking oil and are very cheap to replace.