Another no start...

[maytag]

wow. that's a head-scratcher.
I thought sure you'd discover your injectors weren't firing.
so, I know from installing my own that the red light flashes once you get the wire from the switch hooked-up. the coil pack doesn't need to be hooked-up.
So just as a double-check everything: you've removed and re-seated the connector on the coil-pack?
And you carefully followed the initial-timing setup instructions with the trigger unit?

Has Mark been able to give you any indication as to the best way to check spark?
I really cannot see how firing a spark plug out in the open where you can see it would do anything to harm the coil or trigger unit. So pull a wire, put in a spare spark plug, ground it out and crank. like someone else commented, you should hear it snap, and should see the spark too.

[Europa]

Is there power at the coil with the ignition on?

[Divers]

Head scratching....

Set up the initial timing per the book. LED was on and then I rotated one direction till off and then opposite direction till it just came back on...this all was done when either #1 or #4 was TDC.


OF course, I will recheck that "fact" tonight

[Divers]

I have to recheck the red wire to the coil this evening for 12 volts.

Its going to be something stupidly simple....I can feel it in my bones!

[maytag]

I have to recheck the red wire to the coil this evening for 12 volts.

Its going to be something stupidly simple....I can feel it in my bones!

There's only two wires (plus the ground.. you did get it grounded well, right?) to hook up, and one is the tach, which would not keep it from sparking. If you didn't have power to the red wire, your red light on the trigger would not be flashing.

[Divers]

Maytag,

Light is happily flashing away when I crank the engine. Yes, I grounded the wire well.

So....
I have fuel, but maybe not enough pressure? Doubtful since I have a new pump.
Timing of the cams really seem more likely......How could they be way off without smashing into each other? The cams have a "dowel" pin that fits into the Miller's wheel. The wheel itself has a hole with you use to line up with the tab on the cam tower.

UGH!

[So Cal Mark]

Okay, the system is a waste spark, so it can't be 180 out, it fires each revolution. Initial timing should be at 12btdc. If the red led is flashing then the trigger unit is working. If the harness is plugged into the coil it should have spark. If you intend to test spark at a plug, don't merely lay a plug on top of the engine. It MUST be securely grounded otherwise the arc can damage the electronics.
The wire from the - side of your original coil must be connected to the purple tach wire, otherwise the ecu doesn't see an ignition pulse.
If the ignition timing is not correct, you should be getting backfires when cranking. My bet is the cam timing is wrong and you don't have compression. That would be the only reason for no backfire. I've used Jason's gears and found the alignment holes aren't always in the original positions

[Divers]

Thanks Mark.

It does not happen to me often. But, I am now truely at a point of putting this thing away for a week or two. I have been busting my arse trying to get things together for the italian car show.......

I really thought I had the hang of the timing DOHC.

Thanks for everyone's input.

[maytag]

Remind us where you are located? can we find you some help?

[Divers]

Just outside of Orlando.

I will have to take the cam covers back off to look at the lobes and see how they are lined up and then pull a plug to see when #1 is TDC.

A tad confused, but hey....if it was easy everyone would drive old cars

[Divers]

Just for giggles...

The crank could be 180 degrees off? If I put everything together but #1 was on the intake stroke and not the compression stroke????? (or vise versa)

So.....It may be as simple as align the crank pulley mark....check the the cam pulleys are correct. Loosen the timing belt and then rotate the crank pulley 1 revolution clockwise.

Is this correct?

[maytag]

nope... sorry.
your CAMS' orientation is exactly what will determine if you are on compression or intake stroke. The crank doesn't know, or care.

So if you have pistons 1 & 4 at the top, then put your cams in the right place for # 1 or 4... it won't matter.... except that your timing marks (for the cams) won't line up unless you're on #4.

that probably made no sense to you... but it did in my head, I swear it!

But what I'm really saying is: no, you can't be 180d out on your cam timing. but you CAN be out 90d, or 45d, or 27d, or whatever.... if the holes are not correctly indexed to the lobes.

What process did you use to index your cams on assembly?

[Divers]

Maytag -

I am damn sure that #1 was at TDC (or #4)

Installing the cams seemed easy. At the end of the cam there was a nub that the wheel fit onto. The cam wheel has a hole to align to the cam housing. Thought it was easy.

I am really missing something basic here.

[maytag]

Cam installation should be pretty straightforward. You did it "right", but only halfway.
what you did is rely on all the marks to be correct. Mark says he has seen Millers' Mule's marks be off before. I've only ever had one set, but they were correct.
Now is probably not the best time to point-out that just assembling it the way you did defeats the purpose of the adjustable gears. If you are not measuring and indexing the cams, then those gears are money down the drain. I only bring it up now because if we had indexed the cams on assembly, that would remove the variable of the possibility that the gears are marked or drilled incorrectly.

I know; I'm sorry.
I think at this point, I'd come back to the compression test being the next obvious check. it is alot easier than trying to degree-in those cams with the motor assembled.

[Divers]

Not in a happy place.

Removed plug #1... Would have thought I would have seen or spelled gas with all the cranking...it was bone dry. Guess compression test is next

Would "kill" for a mechanic local...just for little things like this.