1800 intake on 2000

[danaspider]

I will be changing out the intake on my 2000 this weekend. I see that there is an exhaust port on the block that is not covered by the 1800 intake. What is the best way to cover this opening?

Think I have the rest figured out. As I see it I only need a vacuum connection for the brakes and distributor. Correct? Just leave the charcoal filter hanging?

[So Cal Mark]

you can use a small freeze plug to block the hole, but if you also change the exhaust manifold you can just leave it open.

[mbouse]

caution....the 2000 intake has one more bolt than the 1800 intake. if you only look at the 1800 intake you may not see that extra bolt, hiding under that timing belt cover. that bolt hole can be used to hold the 1/8" piece of steel stock that you fabricate to cover the EGR port....or make plans now to stop the flow of exhaust gases from the other side of the engine block and merely leave this side open as Mark suggests.

also, you will have to fabricate a bracket to hold your dipstick tube after you change intakes. don't attempt to run the engine with the dipstick tube sitting on your workbench (don't ask).

unless you are plugging all of the gas tank tubes that don't feed your new carb, i would not abandon the charcoal canister.

[Danno]

Kill two birds with one stone. cut yourself a piece of 1/8 or slightly thicker metal into a shape that will bolt over that hole (just like MBouse was saying) and have it stick wayyyy out and bolt the dipstick to it.

Ditto to everything else he said about charcoal canister and such. Did you upgrade carbs? which one did you get? Do not use vacuum off of the intake manifold for the dizzy (someone else jump in here) you want to use the vacuum off of the Carb....

[racydave]

Your vaccum advance on the distributor needs ported vac which is created at part throttle, with no vaccum at idle. It must come from a carb port. To be sure, uncover the port and at idle ( no choke ) it will have no suction, with the throttle increased the suction will then increase. Usually timing is checked with the vac hose removed ( and plugged ) from the advance unit. Like Dan said you can make a L bracket, apply a little sealer, and bolt thru hole to block, the protruding part can have a hole for a pull-tie to hold the dipstick! ALSO its an oppertune time to replace your cracked hoses at the cyclonic trap, as it is easilly acessed with the intake removed ( a B---- to do later, I know! ) Have you ever cleaned the ring terminals at the starter? Some emory cloth is helpfull. Is also most accesable at this time!

[mbouse]

and a plethora of advice just pours in. can you tell that we've just been thru this recently?

please note that right below the intake manifold you are about to remove is a direct hot wire (read real big fat cable) that connects directly to your battery. have you ever in your entire life dropped a tool? if you drop a tool attempting to remove the intake manifold....I hope you remembered to disconnect your battery first, cuz if not....it may be too late.

once that intake manifold comes off, you will see the top of your starter for perhaps the first time. here you will see a buncha wires hopefully properly insulated, and probably quite grungy. now would be a real good time to clean those electrical connections and tighten them....you may never see them again.

[danaspider]

Great informayion. I am aware of the sparky events from under the manifold. I have blinded my self several tiimes in that area. Really starting to enjoy it though. Have carcon fibre sockets and extensions to try to protest my self.

I am adding the 34 ADF carb. There is only the single vacuum point on this carb. Being a 79 the canister is a 3 connection canister. 2 went to the carb (one of which was broken for years). On the new carb with only the single vacuum point, where should the 2 hoses from the canister go?

Good tip on the dipstick!!!

Any other ideas or pics are welcome.

Thanks for all
Dana