Stripped Coolant T

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Foster48x

Stripped Coolant T

Post by Foster48x »

Hey guys I stipped the threads on my coolant T tightening it down today and now it won't seal. Any suggestions on a solid fix? I did a quick fix with some sealant but I don't think it's going to hold. Any ideas before I purchase another one?

Rick
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SLOSpider
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Your car is a: 1973 124 Spider 2.0FI
Location: Lompoc, Ca USA

Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by SLOSpider »

If it were mine I would remove the housing that is stripped out and install a helicoil insert and never worry about it again. The kits are not cheap but almost a must have if you have an older car.
http://www.how-to-guides.net/how-to-fix ... insert/31/
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1975 124 Spider
1976 Mazda Cosmo http://www.mazdacosmo.com
1989 Chevy k5 Blazer
1967 GT Mustang Fastback
kristoj
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Your car is a: 1982 Fiat Spider 2000 Turbo
Location: Ohio

Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by kristoj »

I don't feel so bad now as I did the same thing a couple of years ago. The easiest (and possibly cheapest) fix is to get a good used one from someone on this forum. People are parting out cars all the time. Other alternatives are to try the helicoil (just make sure you remove the tee before drilling so youo don't get shavings in your system) or purchasing a new one, which are still available.
John
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Foster48x

Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by Foster48x »

I think I'm going to try out the heli-coil option. If I tear it up I'll look for a used one.

Does anyone know what size the coolant T plug threads are? Right now mine is locked on with RTV sealant until I get the correct size heli-coil.

Thanks,
Rick
Tango

Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by Tango »

I dont know if this helps, but the nut is 10mm. I just put mine on last night.

Tim
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Your car is a: 1973 124 Spider 2.0FI
Location: Lompoc, Ca USA

Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by SLOSpider »

Im pretty sure your going to need a 6x1 kit

4 mm bolt - 7 mm wrench
5 mm bolt - 8 mm wrench
6 mm bolt - 10 mm wrench
8 mm bolt - 12 mm wrench
10 mm bolt - 14 mm wrench
12 mm bolt - 17 mm wrench
14 mm bolt - 19 mm wrench
16 mm bolt - 22 mm wrench


There are four primary considerations for spare bolts and nuts: (1) diameter, (2) pitch, (3) class (strength rating), and length (bolts only).
6 mm diameter - 1 mm pitch (iso course) - requires 10 mm wrench to fit head / nut
8 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch (iso course) - requires 12 mm wrench to fit head / nut
10 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch (iso fine) - requires 14 mm wrench to fit head / nut
12 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch (iso other) - requires 17 mm wrench to fit head / nut
14 mm diameter - 1.5 mm pitch (iso fine) - requires 19 mm wrench to fit head / nut
16 mm diameter - 1.5 mm pitch (iso fine) - requires 22 mm wrench to fit head / nut

Image
1975 124 Spider
1976 Mazda Cosmo http://www.mazdacosmo.com
1989 Chevy k5 Blazer
1967 GT Mustang Fastback
Foster48x

Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by Foster48x »

Good info!

The head of the coolant T plug takes a 17mm wrench... so the threads would be 12 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch? Am I reading that correctly?

Rick
htchevyii
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Your car is a: 1982 Spider hers 1972 Spider his
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Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by htchevyii »

So it's just the plug that's stripped? I tapped mine out to a standard pipe thread and screwed in a drain cock. Now I can bleed it without tools and don't have to worry about stripped threads again. I tapped the hole to 1/2" pipe thread, but the the 1/2"pipe cock hit the coolant temp sensor, (not a issue on carbed cars), so I used a 1/2" to 3/8" bushing and a 3/8" drain cock.
Trey
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1972 Spider, 78 Spider rat racer 57 f-100,
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SLOSpider
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Your car is a: 1973 124 Spider 2.0FI
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Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by SLOSpider »

Im sorry I thought you were talking about the small bolts to hold it on. So if its 17 then most likely you will need a 12mm set. Or you can do as suggested above and just tap it out with pipe thread and install a pipe plug.
1975 124 Spider
1976 Mazda Cosmo http://www.mazdacosmo.com
1989 Chevy k5 Blazer
1967 GT Mustang Fastback
Foster48x

Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by Foster48x »

htchevyii wrote:So it's just the plug that's stripped? I tapped mine out to a standard pipe thread and screwed in a drain cock. Now I can bleed it without tools and don't have to worry about stripped threads again. I tapped the hole to 1/2" pipe thread, but the the 1/2"pipe cock hit the coolant temp sensor, (not a issue on carbed cars), so I used a 1/2" to 3/8" bushing and a 3/8" drain cock.
Trey,
The aluminum T housing on mine is stripped but the brass plug looks ok. I think I'm going to replace the plug anyway because the head of the plug is starting to round off.

I like your idea. There seems to be an enormous number of options for "drain cocks". Do you have a pic of the one that worked for you so I can narrow down my search.

Thanks,
Rick
htchevyii
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Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by htchevyii »

Sure, I'll take one tonight.
Trey
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1982 SPIDER 2000, 1964 CHEVYII, 1969 Chevy Nova, 2005 DODGE RAM, 1988 Jeep Comanche
1972 Spider, 78 Spider rat racer 57 f-100,
htchevyii
Patron 2022
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Your car is a: 1982 Spider hers 1972 Spider his
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Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by htchevyii »

Image
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Trey
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1982 SPIDER 2000, 1964 CHEVYII, 1969 Chevy Nova, 2005 DODGE RAM, 1988 Jeep Comanche
1972 Spider, 78 Spider rat racer 57 f-100,
azygoustoyou

Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by azygoustoyou »

I've been following this thread trying to figure out what you stripped. I have a 1800 and my T doesn't have the drain on the T. I realized with the picture what you were talking about. :roll:
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Your car is a: 1973 124 Spider 2.0FI
Location: Lompoc, Ca USA

Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by SLOSpider »

Good job and will come in handy bleeding the air out of the system.
1975 124 Spider
1976 Mazda Cosmo http://www.mazdacosmo.com
1989 Chevy k5 Blazer
1967 GT Mustang Fastback
Foster48x

Re: Stripped Coolant T

Post by Foster48x »

Thanks for the pics Trey.

How do you top off the upper radiator hoses? With the valve? or do you have to unscrew the drain cock from the bushing?

Rick
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