Well, I was able to get back at my timing belt replacement effort tonight. So far so good except until when I got to the final part removal: the tensioner pulley / bearing. It wouldnt pull off by and so I applied a bit of leverage with a screwdriver behnd it and the pulley and front bearing race popped off. The rear race is still there. On the replacement unit, the inner sleeve surface has no seam in it, but the one that I am trying to move obviously was in a front and a back half. The rear half will slide forward until it is flush with front of the shaft but no further. I applied some liquid wrench to loosen things up and it will slide happily back and forth but modest leverage from behind will not remove it.
The tensioner bracket is still in place on the engine. Am I missing something? How do you get that thing off? Here are some pictures:
Tim
How to remove timing belt tensioner
- SLOSpider
- Posts: 1140
- Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2010 2:10 am
- Your car is a: 1973 124 Spider 2.0FI
- Location: Lompoc, Ca USA
Re: How to remove timing belt tensioner
I recompensed you use some emery cloth or sand paper with some penetrating oil on the shafts outer portion where its bindind up on you. It may have some rust burs or a lip from wearing down over time. If that does not work you may have to feel for the edge where it binding and take a file to her.
1975 124 Spider
1976 Mazda Cosmo http://www.mazdacosmo.com
1989 Chevy k5 Blazer
1967 GT Mustang Fastback
1976 Mazda Cosmo http://www.mazdacosmo.com
1989 Chevy k5 Blazer
1967 GT Mustang Fastback
Re: How to remove timing belt tensioner
I can't feel any lip or burr, but certainly that is what I thought too. A bit of emery paper may do the trick, and then the new one will go on better also. I just wanted to be sure that there was not a step I had missed before I go further.
On the plus side, I think it is a good thing I replaced this. The old one was making a slight noise and there was only a tiny trace of lubricant on the balls bearings.
On the plus side, I think it is a good thing I replaced this. The old one was making a slight noise and there was only a tiny trace of lubricant on the balls bearings.
Re: How to remove timing belt tensioner
First thing I would do it get that bracket off the car and into a vise.
Looks like that inner brg race moves, so just a matter of getting leverage behind it, it just pulls off. A small gear puller would work. Screwdrivers or proper pry bars on each side would probably work as well.
If you have a torch hit that race for a few seconds and it will expand.
Get it in a vise where you can work at it, you are not missing anything, it just slides off.
Keith
Looks like that inner brg race moves, so just a matter of getting leverage behind it, it just pulls off. A small gear puller would work. Screwdrivers or proper pry bars on each side would probably work as well.
If you have a torch hit that race for a few seconds and it will expand.
Get it in a vise where you can work at it, you are not missing anything, it just slides off.
Keith
Re: How to remove timing belt tensioner
OK, it's off. I cleaned the end of the machined shaft with a bit of emery paper, then a bit of steady pulling and it came off. Similarly, the new bearing took a bit of gentle tapping and then happily slid home. Working on getting the aux drive pulley to stay at the right place while getting the belt on.
BTW, the old belt looked pristine, but no regrets. I know that it was at least several years old, installed before the time of the previous owner.
BTW, the old belt looked pristine, but no regrets. I know that it was at least several years old, installed before the time of the previous owner.
- SLOSpider
- Posts: 1140
- Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2010 2:10 am
- Your car is a: 1973 124 Spider 2.0FI
- Location: Lompoc, Ca USA
Re: How to remove timing belt tensioner
As long as your close on the aux pulley your golden a tooth or 2 is not going to matter. The best way is to have no slack between the exhaust, intake, aux, and crank gears then let the tensioner take up the slack. But as long as the crank, intake and exhaust are all hitting their marks and your close on the aux it will be ok. Also always good to turn it over a few times my hand after you get everything button down and recheck those marks. Brian
1975 124 Spider
1976 Mazda Cosmo http://www.mazdacosmo.com
1989 Chevy k5 Blazer
1967 GT Mustang Fastback
1976 Mazda Cosmo http://www.mazdacosmo.com
1989 Chevy k5 Blazer
1967 GT Mustang Fastback