Valve adjustment time or something else?

[Luddite]

Hi all - as this post will reveal, I need more help than I can offer. I'm just getting to know my 1981 2000, and need some impressions from all who are willing.
From a driver's standpoint, the car runs really well. Plenty of power at all RPMs - just a couple of quirks:

1. Idle is fine after about a minute of driving. When the engine is cold, it idles less smoothly, sometimes dropping to a near-stall before recovering. Sometimes it actually stalls during that initial minute. Fouled plug? Bad wire? Valve? AAR? Cold start valve? Also, when adjusting the idle, how do you know where to set the throttle return stop vs. idle adjustment screw?

2. After the engine is up to full temperature, I hear a medium-soft ticking at idle. Could be a valve or exhaust leak?

I really don't expect that everything will ever be perfect, and I don't want to rip into things and potentially cause more problems by disturbing what actually works unless there's really something wrong that could hurt the engine over time. What do you think? Are 1 and 2 related because it needs a valve adjustment? Any other random thoughts? Should I just thank my lucky stars that it basically drives well and leave well enough alone or am I asking for trouble?

Thanks for any help.

[So Cal Mark]

you've asked a lot of questions, that will take lengthy answers. You should get a copy of the FI troubleshooting manual otherwise you will be guessing at which part may be faulty.
The first step though is the idle stop screw. If you or a PO has been using that to set idle speed you will not get a good idle. Only the air bypass screw should be used to set idle speed. The stop screw is only used to ensure the throttle doesn't get seized in the throttle body as the engine cools down.

[Luddite]

Thanks for the starting point. I know asked a lot of questions, but this was a good beginning. As it turns out, once the throttle return screw was properly adjusted I discovered that the engine idle adjustment screw has virtually no effect on the idle speed. On the plus side, the engine idles nicely at 400 RPM once it has been running for a minute.
Based on other posts here, I used the stethoscope method and determined that the clicking is coming from the exhaust, not the valves. So my next question is -- what can I do to make the idle adjustment effective?

[Luddite]

After further investigation, I discovered the source(s) of the valve-like clicking. First, the fuel injection relay under the passenger side dash is clicking quite rapidly at start up and continues to click after the engine is running. Second, when the clutch is depressed, there is a clicking sound that sounds exactly like a mis-adjusted valve. This sound goes away as soon as the clutch pedal is released, even when the transmission is in neutral. I suspect a bad relay and a possible thrust bearing issue. Am I close? I'm sorry to shoot these questions out in this disorganized way -- I know how frustrating newbie questions can be from my days on a pro audio board but would really appreciate any suggestions.

[wachuko]

This looks like it is going to be a cool thread to learn from... let me get comfortable

[rlux4]

According to Brad Artigue's manual, a clicking dual relay is caused by the throttle position sensor being out of adjustment. His manual has a tune up section for the problem.
Ron

[Luddite]

Thanks much. His site is down - do you know of any way to download or buy that information?

[wachuko]

Thanks much. His site is down - do you know of any way to download or buy that information?

Email? I can send it over via email.

[wachuko]

Site is not down... I was able to view it directly from the site:

http://mirafiori.com/faq/fiatFI_may2002.pdf

[Luddite]

Thanks - what a great resource. Not sure why it wouldn't come up before.

[Luddite]

Sure 'nuff. Adjusting the throttle position sensor fixed the clicking relay. Now if I could just figure out why the clutch ticks...

[launieg]

Someone else will have to help you re. the clicking when clutching, but I can suggest that you listen to each relay that is under the glove box. It's not likely to be the dual relay, which does have a function within the FI system. If it were clicking at that pace, then your car would probably not run at all.

Find the noisy relay and unplug it and see what happens. (Not while driving )
It is more likely to be the windshield wiper relay, or some other relay. (I had this experience, but can't recall which relay was the problem.)

[ga.spyder]

If you follow that fuel injection tuneup in the Artigue manual,you will find all your issues addressed.400 rpm is too low an idle,but that is all addressed in there.Good luck,the fi system is excellent once you work any bugs out.
Craig

[Luddite]

Turns out it was the dual relay for the FI system. The throttle sensor switch wasn't closing when the throttle was at idle. As soon as I adjusted the switch, no more relay clicking. (Cleaning the connectors didn't hurt either). I, too, am surprised it ran at all. The Artigue manual is one of the best I've ever read in any discipline. Cold idle is still a bit rough, but anything over 100F and it's smooth as silk.

[launieg]

Well, that's great news! Sorry if I misled you. I would not have expected the car to run. I guess I have a never ending learning curve ahead of me!