Can engine block be fixed?

[wachuko]

Hello,

Who ever did the last timing belt on the car I just got, forgot to read the memo... Auxiliary shaft broke and hit the side of the block.

Two questions:

1. Can the block be welded to fix it? Car was running fine. I only found out because I took out the oil pan to remove a dent on it.

2. Do they sell the auxiliary shaft already modified (without that lobe)? I want to get one to replace the one in the parts car before I install that engine in the good car.

Aux shaft end



This engine block is toast? or can that be welded? ...

[red107]

Jaime, the only way to properly fix a cracked block is a process called metal stitching. Not sure how much is cost. or who does it in your area.

[ventura ace]

I can't say about the cracked block, but I would think finding a replacement would be a better way to go, since there should be plenty of them around. You can bet that the front aux shaft bearing is fairly worn, too, if the engine has been running with only the front bearing supporting it. The bearings are replaceable.

Sorry to learn about this headache!

Alvon

[pooldoctorstl]

Call me crazy but I don't think I would worry about it for now. Nothing is leaking (oil or coolant) out of it so it doesn't go through the block, and if it did that to the block it has to be in and area that is fairly thin and not a high stress area. I have a Sea Doo that I bought not running that had a broken rod in it that did the exact same thing to the aluminum case when the rod let go so I cleaned it up, threw some JB Weld on it, put it back together and it has been running great for 4 years now with no problems.

It probably just dented it from the inside and stretched the metal, resulting in a surface crack on the outside. Cast iron isn't very forgiving and doesn't stretch well.

You could put a new shaft in it and drive it while you are building the other motor from the parts car. Other opinions?

[wachuko]

Call me crazy but I don't think I would worry about it for now. Nothing is leaking (oil or coolant) out of it so it doesn't go through the block, and if it did that to the block it has to be in and area that is fairly thin and not a high stress area. I have a Sea Doo that I bought not running that had a broken rod in it that did the exact same thing to the aluminum case when the rod let go so I cleaned it up, threw some JB Weld on it, put it back together and it has been running great for 4 years now with no problems.

It probably just dented it from the inside and stretched the metal, resulting in a surface crack on the outside. Cast iron isn't very forgiving and doesn't stretch well.

You could put a new shaft in it and drive it while you are building the other motor from the parts car. Other opinions?

humm.... very tempting... let me open it from the front to check on the bearings.

Do they sell these aux shafts already modified? I can just install it correctly but would be great to install one without the lobe.

[pooldoctorstl]

What about taking the shaft from the parts car, just for now?

[wachuko]

What about taking the shaft from the parts car, just for now?

That engine is complete, with new timing belt, bearings, and seals. The only thing I did not replace was the water pump, old is working fine, but wanted to put a new one in anyway. I now have the new pump so I will replace it and have a complete, ready to go engine.... At this point it would be easier to drop that engine in than to take it apart to remove that shaft

[pooldoctorstl]

You are right. In the time you would spend to do the shaft and everything else, you can R & R the engine. If I remember, it also has a lot less miles on it.

Jeff

[wachuko]

ok, where can I find one??? IAP and Vick Autosports don't list them

[So Cal Mark]

my bet is that crack does go all of the way through, though it may be hard to see. Everyone of those I've ever seen are cracked through the block. I think the block could be used though. As long as that crack isn't into a water jacket, an epoxy type sealer will prevent oil leaks. I've seen cars with that type of fix run well for years.

[wachuko]

my bet is that crack does go all of the way through, though it may be hard to see. Everyone of those I've ever seen are cracked through the block. I think the block could be used though. As long as that crack isn't into a water jacket, an epoxy type sealer will prevent oil leaks. I've seen cars with that type of fix run well for years.

Cool. I was planning on using JB Weld. Any other stuff that you can recommend (by name so it is easier to find )

I sent an email to the folks at http://www.spiderroadster.com/index.htm to see if they have an Aux shaft.

[So Cal Mark]

I'd use JB Weld. I may have an aux shaft, I can check in the morning if you still need one

[wachuko]

I'd use JB Weld. I may have an aux shaft, I can check in the morning if you still need one

Do check. If you have one just drop it in the box with the exhaust. Talk to you tomorrow.

[majicwrench]

I have used your typical silicone sealer on those typecracks for years very successfuly. Get some grey Permatex. Clean block with Brake-clean first, let it dry, that will remove all the oil residue.

Epoxy is not much for flexing, and if that crack is opening/closing at all as block heats/cools the epoxy will fail.
Keith

[wachuko]

I will go with JB Weld or this : http://www.alvinproducts.com/

And thank you Chris for the offer and the suggestion on how to make the fix:

When patching the crack on the block,I was told by a gear/motor head here, make sure you have ground the cracks clean and if possible take a dremel and just lightly grind out a bit of a trough in the cracks. Clean with brake cleaner and fill with the JB weld. The machinist that helps me said you can weld cast, grinding out a groove for the material to sit in.

I found an auxiliary shaft, should be on its way before the end of the week (got it from Matthews Parts). Ordered the bearings from Vicks Auto.

Once I get all the parts to do this I will take photos and post them on this thread.