chasing turn signal gremlins

[jdeight]

Neither my turn signals nor my hazards work. I have studied the wiring diagrams, got myself a continuity tester, and started jabbing it into various junctions, following what I thought was a logical progression to isolate the problem. I quickly found an odd result that sent me back to the googles and, ultimately, here.

I first confirmed that fuse A is hot on start and run. My second stop was at C32, the round connector behind the hazard switch. I tried to confirm continuity for the light-blue-and-white wire at this connector (which I think is the first stop for this wire after fuse A) but I found no continuity. Instead of continuity, when I connected that wire to ground, I heard a clicking that I *think* must be either the seatbelt timer relay or seatbelt relay. But when I disconnected each of those relays, singly, and then disconnected both at the same time, the clicking persisted.

Any thoughts on next steps?

(Thanks in advance for your patience. I am trying to do my homework before posting, but I've never done this kind of work before, so don't really know how to distinguish interesting issues that merit new posts from dumbass noob q's)

[spider2081]

I find continuity tests (ohm meter) not much use for troubleshooting circuits. AN ohm meter is best used to check a component isolated out of the circuit it operates in.

I think troubleshooting the signal/hazards circuit should begin with checking all of the signal light bulbs in the in the car. Are they good and the correct part number? Then the light sockets should be clean and tight.
Next: are all the sockets properly grounded. The front ground to the grounding pods on their respective fender wells. The read both ground on the drivers side at one of the studs holding the drivers light assembly to the car.
Next: make sure the hazard switch is properly connected to the cars harness.
Next: make sure fuse 1 (signal power) is good and in place. Make sure fuse 9 (hazard power) is good and in place.
Next using either a volt meter or a test light check for battery voltage on the dark blue wire at the flasher. There should be power with the ignition key off and the hazard switch on (out). There should be battery voltage with the ignition switch on and the hazard switch off (in)
Its pretty common for the flasher not to work on battery voltage but work when engine is running.

[GeorgeT]

You have checked to see if the flasher unit is okay?

[TX82FIAT]

Spider2081 and George T are speaking from experience. Have done all of the above to get my signals to work. In addition, check the connection points for the wires into the funky 80's style circuit board in the rear light assemblies. These often corrode or have poor contact increasing resistance across the circuit. How many volts is your alternator putting out when car is running. The old Bosh 65 amp alternator is pretty durable and an alternator upgrade will make a properly running electrical system run better as the current has a stronger rate of speed. However, an alternator upgrade will only marginally improve an electrical system that has flaws in the circuit. Make sure your alternator is putting out 13.5 volts or more. The fact that turn signals and hazards are out on all four corners without blowing fuses leads me to a resistance/corrosion/grounding issue or a hazard switch issue. Clean all grounds and connection points, this needs to be done every 3 or 4 years at a minimum as standard maintenance. Just take three to four hours on a Saturday and knock it out starting with grounds and moving to all plastic and rubber connection points. If cleaning and ensuring good contact points does not fix the issues then see if anyone has a spare hazard switch to plug in. If you were hot to ground I suspect you would be blowing fuses left and right. Seems like a circuit issue.