Rear Circuit Board Grounds

[davery]

I'm having a few issues with the rear circuit boards. I have a tear in the copper line on the drivers side board where the plug. This means no bulb is currently grounded. I'm thinking of just bypassing the board and running all new grounds. Can I drill out the ground rivet on each socket and run wire to connect all the sockets and then run that wire to the ground on the fender? Has anyone ever replaced the sockets on the circuit board? If so, where would one get the new sockets? Nothing I have found looks remotely close.

[spider2081]

It might be easier to post in " cars/parts wanted" section for a good used board.
Also I'm thinking the outside of the light socket is no always the ground connection for every light bulb on the boards.

[davery]

It might be easier to post in " cars/parts wanted" section for a good used board.
Also I'm thinking the outside of the light socket is no always the ground connection for every light bulb on the boards.

It looks like the center section of each board is the ground and all bulbs connect to it. The problem with a "good" used board is that it may look "good" but not be. I tried to solder the tear in the copper ground, but couldn't get the solder to stick to the board. I think I may try running a daisy chain ground on this board to see how it goes.

[RRoller123]

You may be able to repair the copper tear if you are sure to remove all of the green solder mask, lightly buff the copper where you want to connect, and use a fully activated flux, denoted as "RA". You will need to clean the flux residues afterwards as they are corrosive. A Water soluble "WRA" would be good. A mildly activated flux, or a non-activated (RMA, R) probably won't have enough bite. Use a very powerful soldering iron with a wide flat tip to get the traces up the temp. Clean the tip well and "tin" it with solder once hot. I tend to use a Plumber's Flux, which is nuclear waste powered, but ONLY in places where it can be thoroughly cleaned with a solvent. Its residue is highly corrosive.

Failing all that, the suggestions to get one in the used parts bin is a very good one!

Pete

[DRUMMOND]

Hi Don

I did it this way for additional ground effect. Drilled out this rivet hole and replaced it with a screw bolt soldered on both sides. Stronger ground effect this way.

[DRUMMOND]

[davery]

Here is rewired grounds for the circuit board. Since my battery is in the trunk, I went ahead and grounded this with the battery ground. Seems to work pretty well and may also do the other side after I figure out the rest of my electrical issues.

[spider2081]

Looks like you have taken the time to understand the PC board layout and good cure for the ground problem. Thanks for sharing the photos

[davery]

Looks like you have taken the time to understand the PC board layout and good cure for the ground problem. Thanks for sharing the photos

I guess I finally have realized that if I'm going to fix my wiring woes, I have to do my homework. Wiring is not intuitive for me. When I have an issue I have look at the diagrams and ponder for awhile. Now I need to figure out the short on fuse H.

[azruss]

I found that all the problems with my boards were the physical connections between the board and the bulb sockets. I soldered all those joint and all my problems went away.

[RRoller123]

That does make sense, as they are mechanical connections through use of rivets, and are subject to corrosion. Scuffing up the inside surfaces of the sockets with some 400 sandpaper or a small wire brush helps a little too.

[davery]

I found that all the problems with my boards were the physical connections between the board and the bulb sockets. I soldered all those joint and all my problems went away.

I thought about drilling out all those rivets and installing screws. I may still do that.