So, i am replacing my intake manifold, and while i have the old one off, have cleaned outmy crank case vent system, and am wondering what if there is anything i should do to my steering box while I can see it? I suppose as a minimum i should check the fluid level - if i need to add fluid what do i need to purchase? The steering has never felt loose or sloppy but since i have access i want to do what i should while i can. Suggestions anyone? Thank you

If the steering is tight and there is no sign of leakage then I would fill it to within one inch of the top. Then see if you have a leak over the next day or so before reassembling.

The one on my 79 is adjusted as tight as it will go and it still has 3 inches of play in the wheel. I suppose its time for a new steering box.

ClarkTheShark wrote:The one on my 79 is adjusted as tight as it will go and it still has 3 inches of play in the wheel. I suppose its time for a new steering box.

I think there is a USPS driver, somewhere between Ohio and Phoenix, who will have one for sale on EBay very soon (see thread below)
http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26677

Sorry, could not resist...

I have half a dozen in the garage somewhere. Just angry i never learned that that thing had to be maintained. Ill post picks of the carnage of the worm gear. Im sure its bad.

focodave wrote:

ClarkTheShark wrote:The one on my 79 is adjusted as tight as it will go and it still has 3 inches of play in the wheel. I suppose its time for a new steering box.

I think there is a USPS driver, somewhere between Ohio and Phoenix, who will have one for sale on EBay very soon (see thread below)
http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26677

Sorry, could not resist...

I can narrow it down.. It checked in in Denver on March 28, and didn't arrive in Phoenix until Apr 9th. So I figure somewhere between Denver and Phoenix.

steering box is normally maintanance free. at least for first 100.000miles or so.

so - there is very little play in my steering - I am guessing the long storage/lack of driving is what caused my seals to dry up and the fluid to leak. I checked the other side and the idler is dry too. will put some 90 gear oil in the idler, does anyone think I would be OK just filling the steering box back up and going with it? I worry the seals are shot and fluid will just leak out, so to be safe, I ordered the seals for the steering box from Mid-west Bays. I figured since I have access now is the time to do a thorough R&R - but wondering if that is really necessary?? I suppose I could remove the top cover and look inside - since I ordered that gasket as well - Any thoughts/suggestions??

fill it up and see what happens. same with idler.
fluid will probaly leak out but it's quite thick oil so it won't come out fast. maybe filling it up once a year is easier than taking everything out to replace the seals.

seals are probably just britle and cracked because of age

however, the proper way to go would be taking everything out and rebuilding it, new seals included.

once you get idler moving freely, check for radial play in the axle. if there's any, replace the idler. it can be rebuilt but it's a job for a machine shop and probably costs more than new one.

steering box, once filled up with oil should be checked for radial play in the lower bearing. that's one on the bottom that steering arm attaches to. if there's any movement, replace the bearing or whole steering box.
if there's no radial play, next step would be adjusting the screw on top. the one that has a screwdriver slot on top and 17mm nut around it. on the new box screw sticks out 8-10mm from 17mm nut. as insides wear out, screw needs to be tightened. on an old, worn steering box the screw is almost flush with the nut. if that's the case in yours, get another one.
how do you adjust the play? release the nut and screw in top screw as far as it will go and than turn back 360'. tighten the nut while still holding the screw with a screwdriver in place. go for a test drive. when exiting a corner, release the steering wheel, it should turn back to straight position as you accelerate. if the car keeps turning, you need to release the screw a bit further. when you find a position that works fine, play in the steering wheel should be about one inch on the edge of steering wheel. if the play is larger, replace or rebuild steering box.

when buying the used steering box, look at top screw. if it sticks out of the nut more than 6-7mm, it's okay

so. I have read all the discussions on steering boxes in the forum, had mine out, inspected it because it was dry - looked pretty good, and my local fiat guy said "don't take it apart, just put it in and check it periodically" like this thread. I did, and also added some stuff that was supposed to help fix leaking seals. well, now mine leaks like a sieve, so needs to come back out. the problem we had when it was out before was getting the pitman arm off - the only way was to use an air hammer and a pickle fork, and my guy was worried that would trash the lower bearing. i have the seal - but before i dive back in - any thoughts on how to get the lower seal in "easy" if there is such a thing? any tricks other than the "beat it with a hammer until it comes off" for the pitman arm?? no puller in the US fits - to air hammer/pickle fork seems to be the only option - HELP!?!?! I just wish I would have ignored my guy and did it when I had it out - as now, i need to pull the suspension, starter and other stuff - again...................

unfortunate that you did not fix/replace when you had it out previously. I have the same issue and I'm going to do a rebuild when the weather cools off. Maybe a new box. In any event, I'm not looking forward to it.

that might be the plan - keep adding gear oil and keep the cardboard under the car until the winter, when i can pull the damn thing out again and fix it right this time. might order the bearings now, so I have them, since I already have the seals! Hindsight sucks............

Good thread... Subscribed!

So - as I pulled the car out of the garage this morning, the puddle of gear oil had exceeded the large piece of cardboard I have down - I am 99% certain the seal is dead and the box is dry. so, my NEW Plan - to use WD-40 spray lithium grease on 2 week intervals until I can get the box out and re-build it - anyone think this is nuts or a good idea? I don't want to destroy the worm gears as the box is still pretty tight/solid, but I just don't have the time to pull it all apart again to fix this stupid thing now! here is the link to the product - a heavy coating on the worm gear though the fill hole everry other weekend, to keep it lubricated, and then R7R in the fall when the weather starts to turn - any thoughts anyone?? http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist- ... B0083V8KBE

sehovarter wrote:the problem we had when it was out before was getting the pitman arm off - any tricks other than the "beat it with a hammer until it comes off" for the pitman arm?? no puller in the US fits - to air hammer/pickle fork seems to be the only option - HELP!?!?! I just wish I would have ignored my guy and did it when I had it out - as now, i need to pull the suspension, starter and other stuff - again...................

Been there, done that on the '79. This is the solution. Cheap and works like a dream!
http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-an ... -1752.html

For what it is worth, I replaced mine "in situ" without doing much more than loosening the starter. Some bolts a little tricky, but biggest obstacle was breaking the arm loose. I know everyone says everything has to come out, but maybe I'm just too ignorant to have known any better.