'77 Spider - electrical problem

John Donohue · Post by **John Donohue** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:12 pm

I am experiencing a problem with my spider - the car generally runs well, however, at any given moment, the car loses all power - tach pegs to zero, etc. Sometime it will restart immediately, sometimes I am stuck on the side of the road for hours. Then, for whatever reason, it will start and run well, till the next time. Any suggestions? I thought it may be the ignition switch. Thanks in advance.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:14 pm

could be the switch, you'll need to test it with a voltmeter or test light when it acts up. But, I'd check the harness from the ign switch. It's about 6 inches long and often the connection gets loose and the terminals burn from the high resistance. Also, check the fuse box. The fuses get loose and corroded on the tips

1GooDDaDDy · Post by **1GooDDaDDy** » Thu Apr 06, 2006 2:18 am

Here's something I did with the information recieved from my ol' time car machanic on my other driver a 73' Volvo 1800ES. I got out my dremel tool and with a small stone grinder, I removed the fuses one at a time and ground down the holders or clasps that hold in the fuses just a little bit to clean up the fuse holders. To date I have not had problems with the car starting. Of cource it is just a first step. But it seems to work.

Dennis from Sacto.

John Donohue · Post by **John Donohue** » Fri Apr 07, 2006 8:45 pm

All good ideas so far....I found that the previous owner had an electronic ignition module installed - and used all crimp style connections. As I was fiddling with this, one of them came loose - as I work on this I will solder these up. I will also clean up the fuses as suggested. I posted another question about the replacement of the ignition switch - please.....feel free to respond! You guys are too kind.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 1:15 am

along with Denises' procedure, removing the lower cover around the steering column will help allow enough room to slide the switch out once you have it released

John Donohue · Post by **John Donohue** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 6:19 pm

I took care of the fuses today, using my trusty dremel tool....good idea - all of the holders were a bit tarnished. I also found that the fuses were all mixed up. The manual I have shows one 25A and the rest 8A. What were in there......a 16A for the 25A, and then a mixture of 16A and 8A, oh yeah, and one 25A for an 8A. Three of them crumbled when I removed them. After replacing them with new, I find that things work better...I even have a map light that works now!

Tomorrow, that dang ingition switch comes out. My wife is Italian, so I will get some good Italian cuss words from her before I tackle the job. Thanks again for the advice - will let you know how it turns out...

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 1:57 pm

John, record some of those words. Mine are not working as good as they used to. Perhaps I could use a change of vocabulary.

Danno · Post by **Danno** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 2:14 pm

John Donohue wrote:Tomorrow, that dang ingition switch comes out. My wife is Italian, so I will get some good Italian cuss words from her before I tackle the job. Thanks again for the advice - will let you know how it turns out...

That's classic! I've been wearing my Italy ballcap to work on my car, italian curse words would definitely top it off....

John Donohue · Post by **John Donohue** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:00 pm

Well, I took a whack at replacing the ignition switch......thanks for the tips - with the correct position of the key.....pasta fagiole.!!!!!....removal of the steering wheel cowling......mozzerella..!!!, and the small screwdriver inserted......biscotti.!!!....(note...replace food with swear words)... it came out. Lo and behold, progress has been made, and the replacement switch connections are nothing like the old one.

I made a sketch of each (I left the existing switch in place, since it is soldered with really short wires - little room to work...). Dont know if it matters. There are six blades on teh back of the new switch, and seven on the existing with pink, red, black brown and blue wires to the blades, plus two mysterious white wires that come out of the existing switch (not off of a blade connection) - so I am at an impass. Each switch has what I think are amperage numbers for the blades, although some of the ones on the existing switch are missing. I have a wiring CD, which I will load up and check. Anybody got ideas on this?

The good news is that when I got it all back together, it started, and went for a short ride......top down and 60+ for Central NY is pretty good stuff.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:15 pm

the numbers by the blades should be the circuit number, the 2 white wires are for the annoying buzzer

John Donohue · Post by **John Donohue** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 10:36 am

For posterity....the end of the saga.....what solved the intermittent power on / power off situation......replacing the ingition module. If you have a similar problem....check that first...could have saved putting in a new ignition switch, fuses....etc.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 11:31 am

your car wasn't originally equipped with electronic ignition, hence no module. The module would only cause a loss of spark, nothing else

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 1:26 pm

Glad you got it resolved. I hope you saved the old ignition switch for when the new one goes bad!

'77 Spider - electrical problem

'77 Spider - electrical problem

Electrical Problems with a Spider?

Thanks - keep the ideas coming....

Thanks again.....

Re: Thanks again.....

oooohhhh, we were so close.....

Starting problem solved....