Axle Seals/Axle Play

[Timo]

I have two chronic problems with the rear axle on my Spider. Axle is the older style (pre '77?)
The car is run primarily in vintage road races.
First, am going through axle seals regularly and quickly, both sides. There does not appear to be any unusual wear on the axle shafts. Anyone dealt with this before? Someone mentioned that seals with two rather than one seal surface might be available.

Second, there is a fair amount of end play in the axle (lateral about .015-.020") which is enough to move the pistons in the caliper occasionally and create low pedal pressure. Quite scary when this occurs. I've compensated for that by pumping the pedal on the straights, but would like to fix this if possible. I've considered putting shims in where the bearing meets the housing. Don't know where I can get them. Any other ideas?

[hayesbd]

There should be only a few ways to get that much endplay:
* Snap ring missing/worn
* Retaining collar mis-positioned and/or loose
* Too much axial play in the bearing

I have never been into these parts, but I just replaced brake components on the rear and I cannot seem to keep the rotor from rubbing on the pad spring clips. I will be looking into whether or not I have excessive endplay as well.

I hope I don't have to remove the bearing since it apparently requires a very heavy press to move the collar. Installation, according to the manual, involves heating the collar to 300C (570F)!

Good luck,
Brian

[engineerted]

Timo,

It is time to replace those bearings. Leaking seal is a good indicator for bearing replacement, for those of use who race these cars. Now, when you go to replace those bearings and seals, take one of the old seals and remove the garter spring from behind the lip. The spring is actually threaded in on itself, so look for where the two ends come together and twist it either direction until it comes apart. Cut 1/8" off the non tapered end and thread it back together. This is now the spring you will use in the new seal. The shorten spring will add pressure to the lip and will prevent leaks. The stock seal and spring can not cope with the shaft deflections that occur during racing, and wont last very long.

Ps. While you have the bearings off, check for cracks at small radius where the bearing sits. You may need to use the dye penatrent crack detector. Vintage race tires may not be as wide as those we race with in SCCA but it is good preventive check.

Racing. Tips for today.

Ted

[majicwrench]

Make sure the vent for the rear end is functional, or you will ALWAYS have seal leaks. The pressure build up from heat has to go somewhere.
Keith

[Timo]

Thanks, Ted and Keith.
I think I can handle the seal alteration. Though I'm aware of the difficult procedure for bearing replacement from the shop manual, Any tips on that or know of a shop that might exchange mine if I shipped them?

[vandor]

One customer had chronic leaks on his racecar and found that an early 90s Honda (Accord?) cam seal is almost the same size, just a hair smaller ID.
Jim S., a well known Spider racer also had this problem, and he was looking for bearings with no end-play. I checked both Fiat OEM and SKF bearings, and both had some end-play. He said he found some bearings with no end-play at another vendor.

[Timo]

Csaba- quite interesting.
So, I'd love to find out which bearing manufacturer that is, or contact info for Jim S. i'd also appreciate another racer to share info with. PM me if you think that is more appropriate.

Thanks.