How can I change out these fuel injector hoses? There's nothing wrong with them other than that they're 31 years old.
They don't appear to be removable, however, I could be wrong.
Replacing FI hoses
- bran100
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 12:34 am
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider
- Location: Draper, Utah
Replacing FI hoses
Brandon
Lots of pics: https://www.adoberevel.com/shares/cc771 ... 197cf3ce11
Lots of pics: https://www.adoberevel.com/shares/cc771 ... 197cf3ce11
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- Patron 2019
- Posts: 620
- Joined: Sun May 16, 2010 4:43 pm
- Your car is a: 1981 Spider 2000
- Location: Detroit Area
Re: Replacing FI hoses
I thought the same thing first time I pulled my FIs out. Actually they are removable/replaceable.
If you carefully cut the hose off close (1/2" or so) from the metal collar ends you'll see the fuel rail and ejector have ribbed fittings the tubing is pushed over..so the new hoses will fit right over the bare ribbed fittings. You can use the metal collars again, I felt a little better using fuel hose clamps in addition, available from most autoparts stores. Make sure you ask specifically for fuel hose clamps, not normal hose clamps. There's another thread with good pictures if you search...the other posters also made mention to proper position of the clamps so you can tighten them once the FIs are installed.
If you haven't had the injectors cleaned (new screens etc.) now might be a good time to have it done ($20 to $30 each).....but that's likely why you pulled them out in the first place..
Also, before you reinstall them, think about your rubber fuel lines from the gas tank, to the filter, fuel pump, all the way to fuel rail ones etc. before you put the fuel injectors back. Start from the fuel tank and work forward to the engine or you'll knock loose particles from the old hoses into the new sections of the fuel line. Then bleard a little before reconnecting the fuel rail.
Remember good safety practices for your self, and the car when playing with fuel delivery systems.....don't hesitate toask if you have questions..
If you carefully cut the hose off close (1/2" or so) from the metal collar ends you'll see the fuel rail and ejector have ribbed fittings the tubing is pushed over..so the new hoses will fit right over the bare ribbed fittings. You can use the metal collars again, I felt a little better using fuel hose clamps in addition, available from most autoparts stores. Make sure you ask specifically for fuel hose clamps, not normal hose clamps. There's another thread with good pictures if you search...the other posters also made mention to proper position of the clamps so you can tighten them once the FIs are installed.
If you haven't had the injectors cleaned (new screens etc.) now might be a good time to have it done ($20 to $30 each).....but that's likely why you pulled them out in the first place..
Also, before you reinstall them, think about your rubber fuel lines from the gas tank, to the filter, fuel pump, all the way to fuel rail ones etc. before you put the fuel injectors back. Start from the fuel tank and work forward to the engine or you'll knock loose particles from the old hoses into the new sections of the fuel line. Then bleard a little before reconnecting the fuel rail.
Remember good safety practices for your self, and the car when playing with fuel delivery systems.....don't hesitate toask if you have questions..
Current 81 Spider 2000
Previous 76 Spider
Previous 76 Spider
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- Posts: 3959
- Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:14 am
- Your car is a: 1980 124 spider
- Location: Naramata B.C.
Re: Replacing FI hoses
All excellent advice. Want to add one thing though..
When you use the proper FI hose clamps, keep in mind the orientation so that if they do drip , you can tighten them up when in place.
At start up, wipe everything dry with a shop towel and I will usually put a dry shop towel under the injectors and let the car idle for a bit to check for leaks. They might just weep but with the starter and alt right below, they have to be absolutely tight and no leaking.
Chris
When you use the proper FI hose clamps, keep in mind the orientation so that if they do drip , you can tighten them up when in place.
At start up, wipe everything dry with a shop towel and I will usually put a dry shop towel under the injectors and let the car idle for a bit to check for leaks. They might just weep but with the starter and alt right below, they have to be absolutely tight and no leaking.
Chris
80 FI spider
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box