1975 Spider Video - rough idle, starting and tach issues

[Surfbeamer]

Hi, i uploaded a youtube video of my spider project running. I would like feedback if this sound right and on the problems I listed below.
http://youtu.be/ma8HQyh7hlc

Here is the issue:
Seems like its running a bit rough, like missing ever so slightly. Other issues Im having and possibly relate are:
Some flat spot during 1st gear acceleration. Tach needle bounces 1000 to 3000 above actual revs when warm. The car also can be hard to restart when warm.

There is plenty of battery power, headlights, fan and everything on and can still crank engine. Tested my battery and alternator and also has auto store test and it was fine. Solid 12 to 14 volts at coil. But engine doesnt seem to want to catch, like no spark. It always starts in the end, battery hasnet died even if I need to crank 5 time. The problem disappears.

The car has a stock 1978 engine with new belts, rebuilt carburator, recent plugs, wires, points. Tested the compression before switching and cylinders were balanced at 140 to 150 psi. Now running single points with new wire from coil +. Distributor cap is in good shape. Tested resistance of wires, cap, rotor and coil and these seem within spec. Tested 2 coils, both the same. Refurbished all wiring connectors and grounds. Headlights strong, blinkers pretty rapid, 86 flashes per minute.

Idle speed set at 850 rpm, dwell 54 degrees, idle mixture screw is about 1-1/2 turns out. Timing is 10 BTDC.
Carb air jets are 180 main, 170 sec, the other jets are stock size.
Air pump and EGR are bypassed for now. Vacuum hoses plugged. Tested ok for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner and butane gas.

Just before posting this, I found a post about valve adjustment helping idle and warm start issue, plus the engine seems to be making valve noise. Could this be the issue.

Anyway I hope someone can steer me down the right path, and let me know what order to do things.

Thanks

[tartan18]

I have a 1975 and my engine sounded like yours before I did three things .... First, I upgraded the distributor to the Computronix unit that Mark Allison sells. Second, I adjusted the valves (two on the exhaust side were out of tolerance). Third, I replaced the stock ADFA carb with the EPMI DFEV 32/36. It took a while to dial in my new carb but once I figured out the right idle mixture setting my car now runs very smoothly.

[Surfbeamer]

Thanks for the info. I got my valve adjustment tool from AR yesterday and plan to check that next. The carb and distributor upgrade seem like a good call.
I did find that the old distributor rotor had 0.2 mm of axial play. I swapped it for a spare and the engine is running a little better. Miss firing is most noticeable on the initial cold start. i have to pump the accelerator till the revs stablize.
At least its running ... getting it fine tuned is part of the fun.