'81 FI 2000 Won't Start When Warm

[alsgro]

Hi, all.

Let me say first that I have been after this problem for a while now... I have intalled:

1. New O2 sensor
2. New Temp Sensor (on the T housing)
3. New Cold Start Valve
4. New Thermo Time Switch

BUT, still... if I drive the car up to temperature and, say, run into a store for 10 minutes, when I come out the car will usually try to start but sputter out. If I open the hood and remove the connector to the cold start valve, she'll fire up. But then, in the morning, I'll have to reconnect to get it running after it sits all night and cools off.

Anyone have any thoughts??

[So Cal Mark]

have you tested the cold start injector for leakage or improper signal?

[alsgro]

No, I haven't. Thought that replacing it would just miraculously fix it, but realizing now how dumb that is. So, I guess I'll have to get out the multimeter today...

[azruss]

with what you replaced, i am betting on some bad or dirty connectors.

[alsgro]

Well, I went to get the car smogged today, and it Failed!! Dangitall...

Passed on everything but the NO test. There's definitely something funny going on with my FI, but I can't find it for the life of me...

[So Cal Mark]

if it failed Nox, you either have too much timing or a lean condition. Or both.

[alsgro]

Thanks, Mark. I'm currently out of ideas, so I suppose I'm gonna have to find someone here in LA who can give it a once over... Everything seems ok, but it still doesn't like to start when warm and the cold start valve is connected. I've never checked timing before, so wouldn't know where to even start! Been 2 years owning the old thing, and this is the first time I've been stumped... Mostly due to endless research, digging around this great forum. Is your shop the one is Upland?

[2ndwind]

From my reading this forum for three years, I would not hesitate to take my car to Mark in Upland if I lived anywhere in LA.

[So Cal Mark]

yes, I'm in Upland

[5strings]

Hi all,

I've read this thread and am having the same problem. I've also changed the temp sender. I checked it with my multi meter and it was out of spec, so I thought changing it was the ticket, but no dice. . The car always runs rich on startup, cold or hot. The one caveat is that my idle air bypass valve is trashed. It was sticking open in random positions, so I've blocked it off for the time being. I was wondering if you've found the solution for the problem on your car.

Since I'm posting, I'd like to thank Mark and Csaba. I blew a head gasket in the fall and got great parts and advice from both of them. I bought cams from mark and a slew of gaskets and other parts from Csaba, and everything worked out great. Thanks!

[alsgro]

That's awesome. Nice work on your car.

Mine still has the same problem. I'm always opening the hood to connect/disconnect the Cold Start Valve. And it still seems to be running a little on the rich side. My gas mileage is down compared to when I first got the car.... Mark had a quick look at it back in Feb, but I should probably take it back out to him to see if he can figure it out. I need a new front transmission seal, so I might have him to that, too. Plus, a new transmission mount (even though I was kinda looking forward to tackling that job).

So, the short answer is, "No," I haven't figured out a darned thing! Sorry! But I'll keep you posted.

[5strings]

That's too bad. I'm considering putting on a push bottom switch on the injector to activate it manually when old, but I'd really like to find out what the true problem is before going that route

[alsgro]

I was considering that, too, but I'm gonna let mark have one more crack.

[5strings]

That's too bad. I'm considering putting on a push bottom switch on the injector to activate it manually when old, but I'd really like to find out what the true problem is before going that route

Darned auto correct!