AAGGHHH. Runs for 10 to 30 min then just stops

[Jamrsthearcher]

I don't think my car likes me.

1982 Spider 2000 FI

I had it almost overheat while stuck in traffic. So when I got home I was going to check the cooling fan.. Cranked it up and let it idle. After about 10 min it just cut off. It was not up to temp yet. the Just to the right of 190. Turned over but would not crank. Put a shot of starter spray in the air filter and it started right up........then died after a few sec. Tested this again and same thing. So no fuel? I was going to read up on this issue and play with it today. Went out and it cranked right up. After 12 min it died. Same thing. I can feel the pressure on the line when cranking. After the pump and right before the injectors. why would the fuel stop when it warms up?

[rlux4]

The fuel pump will stop running if it doesn't get the 12V from the dual relay. The dual relay needs 12V input from the ignition switch and a signal from the air flow meter that the engine is cranking. If it cuts out suddenly a suspect is the fused line from the ignition switch. The factory inline fuse holder can be faulty and cause an interruption in the contact with the fuse causing the fuel pump to stop. The fuse holder is inline on the brown with white stripe wire up behind the main fuse panel.
Ron

[Jamrsthearcher]

Don't think this is it. When it's not cranking fuel pump is running You can feel the pressure build up in the hose in front of it. can also fill the gas line gain pressure right before the fuel injector. it is like the fuel injectors just is not working.

[Jamrsthearcher]

Just had somebody suggest vapor lock???

[Jamrsthearcher]

Other ideas??? Anyone??

[4uall]

http://www.ifitjams.com/starting.htm

[GeorgeT]

Double Relay: one side sor the fuel pump the other for the injectors. There is a diagnostic procedure (Google Bosch L-Jet diagnosis).

[fiathead]

I'm guessing it could either be a relay that's failing when ambient temps rise or maybe a bad fuel pressure regulator. I've found old relays to be the culprit in several cases where the car runs perfectly well, but then does not run at all, with no real pattern found. In this case, there does seem to be a pattern that is heat related though. Are you sure your temp gauges are working correctly? 10 minutes of idle seems like a long time for a car to run, yet not be full warmed up.

[rlux4]

You need to check three things when the car won't start.
(1) Is the fuel pump running. If you can't hear it when you're cranking then run a test light from it with a long enough wire and alligator clips up to where you can see it.
(2) Are your injectors getting pulse signal. I've never had good luck with a test light to check this, the pulse is weak and quick, a noid light is best.
(3) Is spark going to the plugs. Pull a spark plug wire and put a screwdriver in the boot, touching the contact, lay it on the engine so the screwdriver is close but not touching metal, do you get a spark when you crank it.
Have you checked the wires for the magnetic pick up under the dist. cap? These get frayed and it's common to loose spark, especially when the engine is heated.
Once you've found which component is failing in the heat we can probably tell you what's causing it.

Ron

[srwilson]

I didn't see where anyone else suggested this and I'm thinking you probably already checked it, but how about the fuel filter? I've see the same type of behavior before with a slow fuel filter.