79 Spider 1800 intake swap

[Lvspider2k]

This is my first official post on this forum but I want to thank all for the great information, you have saved me many headaches! Okay, so I am undertaking a 1800 intake and carb swap on my 1979 2L spider, originally a California car but now I thankfully live in Nevada. I was searching through the variety of posts on the subject but I still have a few questions. I am installing a EMPI 32/36 carb w/ electric choke on a 78 1800 intake with an EMPI air cleaner. I am also changing the timing belt, fuel pump, oil separator hoses, tensioner, "brown wire" fix, general degreasing, and coolant hoses while its all apart.

1) what should I do with the vapor return line to the fuel tank? I have read several posts that indicate it can just be left vented, but I have concerns with water or creepy crawlies finding their way into the fuel tank. Should I be concerned? I have also read several posters indicate that this line can be plugged, but would there still be adequate venting to the fuel system?

2) Can the fuel return line be connected through a 3-way fuel filter? I picked up a new filter at Autozone that has two outlet connections, should this 3rd connection work for the fuel return line to recycle extra fuel back to the tank?

3) I am plugging the various coolant sensors and vacuum switch connections along with the EGR port on the 1800 intake, I found the appropriate sized pipe plugs for each but my question is thread treatment. I have heard and read several thoughts on ATV vs. thread-loc vs. Teflon tape and I'm curious on the best solution, especially for the plugs in the coolant passages. My understanding is brass is "self-sealing" and requires no thread treatment but steel or stainless does. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I know I can just leave the sensors in place, but I'd prefer a clean install.

4) I am pulling the smog pump as well as the single reed valve in the head, any idea on the thread size for this plug?

Much appreciated!

[So Cal Mark]

the return line on your original carb was a fuel return, not a vapor line. There is a vapor line from the float bowl to the cannister. You can cap that nipple from the cannister. I'd leave the cannister in place with the hoses from the tank connected to it. The 3 way filter can be used for the fuel return line.
I prefer teflon tape for pipe plugs into water passages.
Remember, you have to plug the egr crossover in the cylinder head also.

[Lvspider2k]

Mark,

Thanks for the quick response! You are correct, I was referring to the Evaporative canister return line. It is Monday after all. I actually purchased a F/I evaporative canister (with only the single vapor line connection) several months ago for this purpose...I guess I got too excited removing parts this weekend!

I am fabricating a plug/plate for the EGR inlet tube on the exhaust manifold side of the head. I have read that you could also cap off the outlet thread from my 4-1 exhaust manifold but it seems like I risk more headaches trying to remove the existing fitting on the manifold.

On a related note, fabricate a new bracket for the dip stick or buy a F/I dip stick? If the latter, any suggestions on where to buy one?

Thanks again!

[So Cal Mark]

we just fabricate the brackets, it's not hard