What do you all think? Running poorly

[TXSpider74]

I have finally gotten to tackling the poor running part of the newly purchased 74 spider. I cleaned out and replaced the accelerator pump, cleaned all jets and had them flowing well. Put it back on to the same issue I had before which is:

Car starts fine and idles good but everytime I give it some throttle it just dies out. If I hold the throttle open it will kill the car. If I left off it will go back to idle. This has a 32 DMSA which is manual secondary. Manual Choke so it should be simple. I am thinking my next line of attack is timing? What do you all think?

Rob

[Daniel]

If the timing was that far off for the engine to die it would back fire a lot . Checking the timing and setting it
to default / factory setting would be a good starting point . You might want to check the fuel pump and filter
while your inspecting the car .

[majicwrench]

What does it idle at?? Does the issue improve if yoiu close the choke slightly??
Keith

[TXSpider74]

Daniel,
The fuel pump and filter are both good and clean. It has an electric upgrade and the filter is the clear type and clean.

Keith, it does not change with the choke in any position. Tried to reset the timing and well, the exhaust cam slipped two teeth when trying to put it to TDC. Now I will have to account for that and re-adjust.. ohh the fun. BTW it did backfire a couple of times and it definitely sounded like it was missing even at idle

[TXSpider74]

Here is a YouTube video of what I am talking about.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svstK1j ... ata_player

[Daniel]

sounds pretty bad i would set cam and distributor timing for starters best start with all the basics first .
also check the distributor cap for signs of arcing on the inside of the contact points gap the points i would
clean them as well .

[TXSpider74]

Daniel. That video was after aettig the timing and changed the spark plugs. It got a little better but not quite there. The distributor cap and rotor are brand new the only thing I could think of is the coil possibly? Maybe the Carb is off?

[Daniel]

did you set the cam timing ?

[TXSpider74]

Yessir both came lined up like the manual has it. Pointing to the marks. Distributor lined up perfectly on #4. New spark plugs gapped at .025. She should be good but I think I am gonna Get my timing light on it tomorrow maybe I did not see the marks on the belt though...

[TXSpider74]

What is the possibility of it being caused by it running too rich? I wouldnt think it would bog like that but I am just grasping at straws right now.

[Raze]

Dizzy timing (advance/retard) would be my guess, you said you had the cams lined up on the marks, crank at what deg? with the dizzy pointing to #4. Which engine is this, 1800?

[seabeelt]

Just out of curiosity, when was the last time the fuel pick up was checked inside the tank?

[majicwrench]

You metioned your "timing light" and "marks on the belt" in the same sentence, I assume you understand the timing light is not to see the belt marks??
Tried listening, my computer does not always do a good job with youitube sound ( I know, I should get a computer from this century) really couldn't tell much.
Keith

[seabeelt]

Kieth, From the video, it sounds like ther are a couple oif issues. One is that when the carb is opened (throttle engaged) and sucking air it does not seem to be getting fuel and the motor boggs down until you release the throttle back to near an idle position. The other issue is that it sounds like it is not running on all cylinders. Not to scare anyone, but I had a dodge colt that had these symptoms once and it turned out to be a motor rebuild job ( valves, seals, cams, the works - happened on the highway coming home from work) and had nothing to do with the carb or timing setup.

[seabeelt]

Rob, Even though we know that the electric fuel pump has been installed and it has clear filter, do we know the pressure on the inlet side of the carb? when you open the accellerator, does it drain the fuel filter or does the filter remain steady state? You said it was a 74, does it have the dual point distributor and if so which set of points is it running off of? For dual point, there should be a relay under the dash that can be jumpered to switch from one set of points to the other (Chiltons tune-up) Need to check that both condensors are tight, and both sets of points gapped and dwelled correctly. IF electronic or single point distributor, ignore the above with the exception of tight connections and point gap and dwell. Kieth is correct, the timing mark is a line on the pully and timing is adjusted agianst the metal timing marks not the belt itself.