when I changed the oil about a month ago I tightened all the oil pan bolts. A few weeks later i was under there and checked them and several felt as loose as they did before i wrenched them...
Has anyone had any luck changing the bolts and maybe adding washers (lock washers??)? I am thinking about trying that to see if they stay tight. The pan is clearly seeping and I know thats common so should i just live with it?
Thanks
George
Oil Pan Bolts
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georgeramos
- Posts: 1359
- Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:11 am
- Your car is a: 1971 124 Spider 1608
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maytag
- Posts: 1789
- Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:22 pm
- Your car is a: 1976 124 spider
- Location: Rocky Mountains....UTAH! (Not Colorado)
Re: Oil Pan Bolts
In my experience, most oil-pan seal leakage is caused by warping of the rail that the bolts go through into the block. this results in inconsistent contact between the two surfaces. no amount of tightening will cure that.
I wonder if it would be possible to use the universal-type valve-cover hold-down tabs that are designed for the same problem on the valve-cover?
see here:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-68505
I know that for many popular motors, you can buy a formed-to-fit rail set that goes between the bolt-head and the pan to help hold it down more evenly.
Then, by all means, use a lock washer. or even a little loctite... or if you are completely nuts, like me, safety-wire them!
I wonder if it would be possible to use the universal-type valve-cover hold-down tabs that are designed for the same problem on the valve-cover?
see here:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-68505
I know that for many popular motors, you can buy a formed-to-fit rail set that goes between the bolt-head and the pan to help hold it down more evenly.
Then, by all means, use a lock washer. or even a little loctite... or if you are completely nuts, like me, safety-wire them!
I'm no Boy-Racer..... but if I can't take every on-ramp at TWICE the posted limit.... I'm a total failure!
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124JOE
- Posts: 3141
- Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:11 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 fiat spider sport 1800
- Location: SO. WI
Re: Oil Pan Bolts
remove each bolt one by one
and apply rtv gasket maker silicone
to the threads of the bolt
and tourque to 18
let sit 24 hours to cure
and apply rtv gasket maker silicone
to the threads of the bolt
and tourque to 18
let sit 24 hours to cure
when you do everything correct people arent sure youve done anything at all (futurama)
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
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baltobernie
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 3466
- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:00 pm
- Your car is a: 1973 Spider [sold]
- Location: Baltimore, MD
Re: Oil Pan Bolts
Each of those bolts should be installed with oval washers specific to this application. Are yours missing?
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georgeramos
- Posts: 1359
- Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:11 am
- Your car is a: 1971 124 Spider 1608
Re: Oil Pan Bolts
They are on there.
My friend loaned me the dye/blacklight/glasses kit to see it i could ID the oil leaks and the gasket is certainly a culprit. I am also seeing a bit of oil leaking at the mechanical fuel pump. One odd thing is that I'm seeing oil in odd places like the underside of the upper radiator hose and the fuel line that goes to the filter. I am assuming the front seal(s) are leaking and the oil is spraying to other areas. Does that make sense?
George
My friend loaned me the dye/blacklight/glasses kit to see it i could ID the oil leaks and the gasket is certainly a culprit. I am also seeing a bit of oil leaking at the mechanical fuel pump. One odd thing is that I'm seeing oil in odd places like the underside of the upper radiator hose and the fuel line that goes to the filter. I am assuming the front seal(s) are leaking and the oil is spraying to other areas. Does that make sense?
George
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baltobernie
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 3466
- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:00 pm
- Your car is a: 1973 Spider [sold]
- Location: Baltimore, MD
Re: Oil Pan Bolts
Yes.
If the pan, pump, etc. fasteners are torqued to the proper spec and you still have leaks, the gasket is shot. Tightening them further will not provide a lasting fix. In the case of the oil pan, this may even be detrimental, as it is subject to warpage.
Incorrect oil type or viscosity may also be contributing factors.
The acceptable amount of oil on the garage floor varies among households.
If the pan, pump, etc. fasteners are torqued to the proper spec and you still have leaks, the gasket is shot. Tightening them further will not provide a lasting fix. In the case of the oil pan, this may even be detrimental, as it is subject to warpage.
Incorrect oil type or viscosity may also be contributing factors.
The acceptable amount of oil on the garage floor varies among households.
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georgeramos
- Posts: 1359
- Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:11 am
- Your car is a: 1971 124 Spider 1608
Re: Oil Pan Bolts
actually there isnt any oil on the ground under the car but its definitely leaking. I've been under there a lot in the brief time ive owned it and ive wiped/cleaned it a bunch... I guess it'll be a part of my "hobby"
I'm itching to tinker but cashflow is tight and the car is running so well it doesnt need my help at the moment. i do plan on the timing belt within a month if funds allow the parts purchase. I bought a set of wheel decals from Mark Allison and they look awesome on there. Fit perfectly in the "recess" and make the wheels look like factory spec!
but I digress. The oil pan gasket will be in my future too i guess.
George
I'm itching to tinker but cashflow is tight and the car is running so well it doesnt need my help at the moment. i do plan on the timing belt within a month if funds allow the parts purchase. I bought a set of wheel decals from Mark Allison and they look awesome on there. Fit perfectly in the "recess" and make the wheels look like factory spec!
but I digress. The oil pan gasket will be in my future too i guess.
George