Stalling when cold then when at temp?

[murphslaw]

In advance let me say thanks. There is alot of info on this forum that has saved me a good bit of time and money.

My most recent problem began following changing the radiator and thermo.

When first started I have trouble keeping her from stalling for about 5 minutes.
This weekend after warming up we took her for a drive and about 30 minutes in it felt like it would sputter on acceleration.
This continued intermittently throughout the afternoon including the interstate. (We 2-3, 1-2 hour breaks throughout the day, not constantly driving)
Finally at the end of the day It had gotten so bad it stalled and refused to restart.

I could restart after waiting for it to cool while awaitng AAA.

I will note that the "bleed screw" on the water Tee has a slow drip, since replacing the radiator. Not sure if that is related.

Any thoughts are appreciated. Hoping it is more electrical and just something I missed.

Thanks again.

[124JOE]

i had a simalar problem
check your dis the small wires out the bottom
then over tape them for where it goes thru
then check your neg cable on the batt
i gave mine a gerk and it came right off

good grounds are a must

[So Cal Mark]

more info would help; to begin with is it carbed or fi?

[murphslaw]

Sorry, I am researching while in the office. It is a 1981 spider 2000, FI.

[rlux4]

The most critical sensor on our Bosch system is the temp sensor in the coolant T. If it's bad, or if the connector is not on good and tight, or corroded, then the car will barely run, or even not run at all. It sends a ohms signal to the ECU, cool engine/high resistance, lower resistance as the temperature rises. At operating temp the resistance should be in the 250-300 ohm range, so it could be that it's not functioning at the higher temperatures. You could plug a 300 ohm resistor (Radio Shack has them) into the connector for the sensor and see if it clears up how it runs at normal operating temp.
Ron

[So Cal Mark]

along with that connector, air leaks will drive the system crazy. Check the integrity of the intake boot, often they crack on the bottom and make sure the flap in the afm is not sticking

[courtenay]

Also on the intake boot - if you took it off when you did your rad job, check the hose clamp that holds it onto the AFM box.
I didn't make that connection securely when I did my rad job and had all kinds of intermittent, then total grief with the engine.

[murphslaw]

Thanks everybody. I appreciate the info.
Clearly this is a new hobby for me, not exactly the most mechanically inclined.
Will check all of the above. Regarding the Tee...it does leak very slowly at the bleed screw, what type of washer would be suitable to replace there. Or is it more likely I striped it? I have been afraid to try to tighten it anymore.

[124JOE]

remove the screw and use teflon tape
you can get some from any hardware store

[So Cal Mark]

the plug should have a copper or aluminum washer

[murphslaw]

Thanks again guys.

[murphslaw]

Tinkered a bit last night. She would not turn over. Maybe worse than I thought.

[124JOE]

ya its a batt problem

[murphslaw]

Update. I am Blew do get her to turn over though she will not start. The end fuel pump will run when I open the glance on the afm. I will note the cover for the afm was not sealed. I also pulled the distributor cap and the wires age all but bare. Is that a possible cause for dying while running? Checked the grounds which seem good globally.
At a loss here. Any ideas would be appreciated
Rob

[So Cal Mark]

bare wires on the pickup unit will cause stalling and no start if they touch each other or short to ground