I am not looking to make a Miata-fighter out of a 33-yr old FIAT. I looked at Miatas, I looked at S2000s, I even looked at a heavily breathed-on S3 'Vette" convertible: I wanted and bought a small Italian spider (I looked at a lot of rats). But I want what Lampredi and Pinin Farina intended, not what Nader and Claybrook did to it: I want to bring it to as clean a state of tune as possible within stock equipment parameters.
First: I know it will never be quite right until I drop in some HC pistons. Unfortunately that will have to wait until I recoup the Impetuous eBay Purchase-Tax... (Apparently, "surface rust" means "holed-through suspension pickup points", in an obscure West Ohio-criminal dialect.) I hope to have the car back in my hands at the end of next week, I fully expect I will not.
Second: 1978 CS1 49-state 1800, Pertronix Igniter replacing the stock twin points in a stock distributor. Stock 32 ADFA Weber on a stock single plane manifold. All emissions test-gaming equipment removed as far as I can tell and if anything's left it will be available, free + shipping, to anyone who wants it as soon as I can wrest it free. Soon to have a FIAT BS/CS 4-2-1 manifold/downpipe combo plugging into a NOS Abarth AS/BS exhaust system: This is a done deal and I care for no debate.
A: Ignition Timing
I understand my car should be set to 0deg static advance and has a mechanical distributor that should max out at 36deg advance somewhere near 3500rpm. I also understand this is purely an emissions testing compromise and that people commonly set these cars to 5-15deg static advance yielding then, as I understand it, 41-51deg full advance.
- 1) How isn't that level of total advance harmful to these engines given that it's said 36deg total is the design target? (...Wimpy CR?)
2) Can anyone provide a source for the stock advance curve for this year and model?
3) Is there a source for the stock advance curves for the various AS, BS, CS models and 132A1-series 1800s fitted to other models?
4) If I understand correctly I would rather want 5-10deg static advance and a curve that maxes out at 36deg total, but with what sort of profile?
5) Is "re-curving" the distributor as easy as it seems; adjusting stops, swapping weights and springs (can I swap in the parts from an earlier distributor); or is my impression of a Priesthood that must be appeased correct?
I assume the timing and grind of the cams in my car are, again, dictated by emissions testing workarounds rather than efficiency and drivability.
- 1) Can anyone provide a source for the profile and timing of the stock cams for my car?
2) Is there a similar source for various AS, BS, CS models?
3) Source for the global 132A1-series engines?
4) Is there a commonly accepted timing reset of the stock cams to recoup some degree of efficiency and drivability?
I'm looking to source "the usual suspects", but I don't want to overcarb at this point. Again, and until the previously mentioned eBay Tax is paid-off and I can do HC pistons, I just want to make sure all the emissions test cheats are removed and remediated and the piece that's on the car is functioning as correctly and efficiently as possible.
- 1) I've seen here a few pictures of carbs with various ports plugged off, does anyone have a schematic depicting which ports, on the carb and/or manifold, should be plugged and what was at the other end of the circuit that's been severed (and where to get those port caps)?
2) Was the 32 ADFA used on the 132A1-series engine in any market other than NA and is there a source for how they were jetted and set-up?
3) The subject's been tangentially approached in another recent thread, but my question here is rather: Ignoring the goal of gaming emissions tests, what would be the proper baseline jetting and emulsions tube specifications for a 32 ADFA on a 1978 CS1 1800 with ignition and cam timings set optimally as well?
TIA,
Mark
is that you can go from 80 HP originally to 120 HP without giving up everyday drivability.
