dizzy

[fiat218]

why is the dizzy on the lower right side of the engine ( as u are facing the engine bay)
U have to remove the dizzy to replace the points, what where they thinking? when they build it

[So Cal Mark]

that is the most accurate place for it; there is very little belt deflection and no cam-twist to affect timing accuracy. And besides, what mfg ever worried about serviceability?

[fiat218]

so true mark, so to change that points , u have to pull the dizzy out? correct

[So Cal Mark]

no. I've always done them in the car. I don't look fwd to it though

[fiat218]

ok thanks,

[kmead]

I agree, it is an unpleasant job. On my 1438 I have done it both ways, in the car and out. I find out pretty easy and preferable.

Move the engine so that the timing mark is at your preferred timing position (0°, 5° or what have you). Mark the distributor, both on the base to the block and the rotor to the distributor body.

I then remove it, replace the points and then reinstall it ensuring the mark on the distributor aligns to the mark on the block and the rotor to the distributor body. Using a test light between the points and the coil, you can then ensure the timing is correct before buttoning things up (the light will light when the points close).

Once you are done the engine should be able to start right up and then properly time it with a light. It really isn't too bad doing the job by removing it. Once you do it a few times it is faster than keeping it on the engine presuming you do the initial set up correctly.

[fiat218]

the damn nut came loose and the dissy moved:) geesh something stupid and easy but damn it


ONLY ON A FIAT

[kmead]

Not the end of the world, and certainly not only on a Fiat...loose nuts are on and around every make

Hopefully you didn't turn it 90°.

Tighten the nut of the distributor hold down.

Put the car in 4th gear with the key in the off position. Move the car forward until the mark on the bottom pulley is at TDC on the timing cover mark. Leave it in gear and block the wheels so the car cannot move.

Remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor is pointed towards the or the #1 or the #4 cylinder lead in the cap.

Remove the wire from the post on the side of the distributor that goes to the coil, it is likely black. Attach a continuity tester to the threaded stud where the wire was and the other end to the distributor body. Loosen the nut for the distributor hold down. In all likelihood the light on the continuity tester will be on. Look at the points and the cam of the distributor. Rotate the distributor body slightly to the left or right where the points open and the light on the continuity tester goes out. If you turned it to the left, turn it a bit more to the left until the light turns on again. Then turn it just slightly to the right until the light just turns off.

Tighten the hold down nut. It should be pretty much in time and should start. Once you get it started and exactly timed with a timing light you can mark the distributor body to the engine block. So if you in advertantly move it again in the future you will be pretty close.

If you don't have a continuity tester, you can use a 12v electrical tester between the stud on the distributor and the wire to the coil. This way of doing it requires the key be in the on position but otherwise it is the same. I carry a 12v bulb with wire soldered to it in my car kit with new points and condenser to do this job if I am stuck on the side of the road.

Hope that helps.

[Klayfish]

My distributor is on the left side (as you face the car, it's the passenger side if you're in it) of the engine bay. Is the process of changing the points on an 1800 motor the same as described below then? I actually might be at the stage where I have to change my points and have never done it before.