New Springs and Shocks

[freddie]

Now my 84 Pininfarina Spider is 26 years on and want to do some upgrades. I have some sport springs from IAP which will lower the car about 1" all round.

So, how should I go about this. Should I also look at new shocks at the same time, bearing in mind the efficiencies of time and cost once it's up on the hoist. I'm pretty sure everything is stock at the moment.

I find that the current ride is OK but you tend to feel every small imperfection in the road at times. Is that how it should be or has age had it's toll on the suspension after 26 years - it's done about 100,000 miles. Or. are the tyres afactor in this as well.

I'm keen to get better handling of course, but I don't want to compromise the ride either. I've read much about Koni Red Classics as they are not too harsh but honestly, with so many opinions it's difficult to decide which way to go.

Alternatively, should I just fit the new springs and see how it feels and then consider the shocks next.

[NJFIAT1981]

Hi Freddie,
I just replaced the springs in my 1980 with IAP springs and KYB Shocks. Ride was a little stiff at first but settled down real nice. Highly recomended. George

[ace124]

In Australia, enthusiasts dont use the KYB gas shock. Infact this shock is considered way to hard in the bump. If you look at Fiat original shocks the ratio of bump to rebound was way different to the KYB's. They are very easy to compress (bump) but harder to expand( rebound). KONI's approximate the bump characteristics better. Down here ive seen many 124's with their front shock tower holes punched thru from using a gas shock that is too stiff in bump (yes rust can be an issue also, but a stiff bump characteristic will do it too) .
KONI's can be adjusted in rebound to compensate for wear or to tune to the stiffness of the spring used.
I have had KONI Reds and Yellows on all my 124's and they are worth every cent.
If your using the IAP springs, from memory 300lb fronts, 1/4 - 1/2 a turn will suffice for a sporty yet well dampened ride. In the rear go full soft. These settings were verified with drive on shock absorber test equipment.

Good luck

[freddie]

Thanks Ace for your informative words.
What is the essential difference between Koni Yellow and Reds.
My very basic understanding is that Yellows are better suited to rack/spirited driving wheres Reds are better suited for every day driving. As my wife is the predominate driver I'm sure she won't be impressed if the thing shakes like hell after every bump.

I am aware that Honi's are adjustable. Is this a feature that applies to other brands as well.

[adrians]

Freddie,

As per ace124 post - he's got them fitted to his coupe, the Spider is a bit different and the shock towers sometimes crack with the koni shocks ( I think someone here on the forum can comment more ).

I'm running the KYB - GR2 Gas shocks ($200 landed) and have had them in for 2 years now ! - no problems. I use the car for road and in Supersprints. I have lower springs in the front and the original rears have been reset.

PM sent

[ace124]

I had no idea the coupe and spider have different shock towers Adrian. I was pretty sure they were the same...i mean why would Fiat design them any different when the rest of the front end is interchangable?
My experience with Koni comes from 20 yrs of owning coupes, both road and race.
Koni's oil shocks do offer a softer bump than any gas shock though and i stand by that. The reds and yellows differ in the valving. Yellows having stiffer valving. Reds are a great all round shock for the road, NOT harsh in any way on soft settings. Wound up they would do well on the track also. People punching holes thru their shock towers should look for corrosion in the first instance, but a seized shock, no matter what brand or type will also do it.

[Redline]

Spax seem a nice option for those of us in Europe. Adjustable but not quite as full-on stiff as the Konis.

[mdrburchette]

I'm running the Koni yellows and stock springs and I'm very happy with the way it handles and rides. It is not harsh, but it is very stable.

[NJFIAT1981]

Hi Denise,
Did I read sometime ago that you are using front and rear sway bars from one of the major vendors? Did you have any problems with installation? Thanks, George

[mdrburchette]

I'm running the front 1" swaybar. That has a lot to do with the handling characteristics, I'm sure. The swaybar is a bear to get into the stock mounting brackets and you need to be aware the additional stress to the mounting studs may shear them from the control arm. We ended up removing the studs and installing grade 8 bolts and replacing the mounting brackets with aftermarket ones that you can purchase at a chain auto store in the HELP section. I did have to put them in a vice and bend them the way the originals are bent, but they have heavy rubber bushings that really makes it nice.