1800 manifold install on 2000cc

[minimike]

Hi all. I"ve got my 2000 intake off, what a bear, and have the 1800 in place. I've blocked off the exhaust vent tube flange
from the exhaust side of the engine on the front left side of the head. Just a piece of aluminum flashing with cardboard
gasket behind it. I assume that I dont' have to deal with the open port on front of the head on the intake side which the old
2000 cc head covered. What do you guys do with the lower crankcase breather that used to port into the stock air cleaner?

Also I have a valve on the center of the head which sucks which also went to the stock air cleaner. What do you guys do with
that valve? Can I put the small 3" round air cleaner filters on them? I"m going to a 32/36 carb with a rectangle low restriction
airbox. No place to put these breathers.

And what do you do with the water hose that used to go to the water choke on the carb? Just plug it?

My linkage rod from the cable pivot to the carb stub appears to be too long. I do have some threads left to shorten it, and can cut more threads with a die if needed. Is there another shortcut modification I need to know?

Can anyone post pix of their 2000 conversions with the 1800 head and 32/36 carb? Also like to see a pic of where you've
remounted the dipstick.
And......... I assume that I block off the fuel return line. What do I do with the carbon box and all that valving stuff.
A picture is worth a 950 words. Then please tell me (in 50 words or less) what I need to keep in the car on the drivers inner fender.

Thanks. When I figure out how to post pix, I will.
Mike
Still wondering if there's a club on Long Island, NY.

[danaspider]

Hi all. I"ve got my 2000 intake off, what a bear, and have the 1800 in place. I've blocked off the exhaust vent tube flange
from the exhaust side of the engine on the front left side of the head. Just a piece of aluminum flashing with cardboard
gasket behind it. I assume that I dont' have to deal with the open port on front of the head on the intake side which the old
2000 cc head covered. What do you guys do with the lower crankcase breather that used to port into the stock air cleaner?

Also I have a valve on the center of the head which sucks which also went to the stock air cleaner. What do you guys do with
that valve? Can I put the small 3" round air cleaner filters on them? I"m going to a 32/36 carb with a rectangle low restriction
airbox. No place to put these breathers.

And what do you do with the water hose that used to go to the water choke on the carb? Just plug it?

My linkage rod from the cable pivot to the carb stub appears to be too long. I do have some threads left to shorten it, and can cut more threads with a die if needed. Is there another shortcut modification I need to know?

Can anyone post pix of their 2000 conversions with the 1800 head and 32/36 carb? Also like to see a pic of where you've
remounted the dipstick.
And......... I assume that I block off the fuel return line. What do I do with the carbon box and all that valving stuff.
A picture is worth a 950 words. Then please tell me (in 50 words or less) what I need to keep in the car on the drivers inner fender.

Thanks. When I figure out how to post pix, I will.
Mike
Still wondering if there's a club on Long Island, NY.

Mike
I did this several years ago and will try to get some pictures for you. As to the exhaust crossover block, I would recomend not to use the aluminum, but to make a block from steel. If you still have the original exhaust manifold with the pipe going to the crossover, you are looking at some high heat and the steal is a better block.

For the 2 reed valves in the head, you can remove those and plug the holes with oil drain plugs, that you can get from any auto shop or Ace hardware.

For the water hose from the old carb choke, don't plug it, but loop it back on itself, so you still have water flow.

For the dip stick I just made a new bracket that is bolted to the bolts from the crossover vent on the intake side. Not too hard to make.

I didn't have issues with the linkage on mine, so you may just have to look at yours and see what works. My carbon filter and all emission stuff is now on a shelf in the garage.

Hope this helps.

[minimike]

I think that the coolant line from the water choke actually goes to the 1800 head near the fire wall. I had capped that
water outlet not thinking.

Anyone used the two guides that used to hold the polution plastic tubing for mounting the dip stick? or something else?
I'm about to cut them into washers to retain the oem spacing on the 2 center bolts for the cam housing.

I'll have to look but I think I've only got one valve in the center of the head. And I'm guessing that's the reed valve
you've mentioned. Steel plug into aluminum? I'm thinking brass might be a better idea.

edit by me: RTV rubber gasket is the wrong material to use on an intake manifold. Best bet is to clean both surfaces
head and intake manifold and use something like Permatex hi-tack adhesive. you can get it in a brush or spray
as I recall. Do both sides of the gasket and it's hard to handle. you can do each metal part and stick the gasket to the head,
as there are 2 studs there to locate it properly. Make sure you torque the intake to proper specs.

[minimike]

follow up: I've decided to keep both breathers to the crankcase open so as not to create oil leaks
from excessive crankcase pressure. My fix was to buy a few $6 breathers with filters that slip into
a 3/4" id hose. I got them at Autozone. They're chrome, but I"m sure the chrome won't last too long.
Any way, with the 1800 intake and the 32-36 weber, there was no place to put the lower breather
hose to the air cleaner. I put a 4" stub of a hose on the oil separator on the block and jammed the
filter onto it. It sits very close to the terminals on the starter, but it's totally out of the way, and
not going to short out the starter. On the head,I've eliminated the reed valve, but kept the lower half
of that fitting. It's got a 3/4" od threaded end, which I also slipped a short hose over and finished it off
with the chrome breather. When this had no hose on it, It was sucking. The lower hose if blowing.
In both cases the above filters do the job, and the engine is very quiet now.

I had one other problem with this car which I thought was the brakes,or wheel bearing. It sounded like a
clicking of a CV joint. There are no CV's on the axles. It turns out it's my tires rubbing the inner fenders.

now to fix the horns................

[So Cal Mark]

the reed valve you removed in the middle of the head connects to the exhaust port. Having a rubber hose and filter on that will allow exhaust to escape, melting the hose and filter. I'd remove it before anything catches fire