Thanks BEEK. Yes, I found the pictures.
Here is something that I find hard to understand, but maybe it is just me. Since the manufacturers of intake manifold gaskets are able to get a pretty good fit (maybe +/- 1 mm) I would think that the ports in the cylinder heads are pretty accurately made too, ie. the heads are all alike apart from maybe +/- 1 mm. Why are the manufacurers of inlet manifolds not able to match that accuracy? That is also one of the quality issues with the Allison manifold that I have.
Fair enough if the installer had to machine off half a mm in order to get a perfect and smooth fit. But 3 mm, that is sloppy if you ask me.
Or am I being unreasonable here?

As Beek says, the manifold I am using needed some work to match carbs and head. Obviously, you need an aluminum intake to be able to port it. If it helps, I have 28-29 mm between the two carbs at the linkage mounting surface. Maybe you can compare that to where your first manifold put the carbs in relation to each other. I have been putting much thought into the linkage but have not made a decision yet. Feel free to email for pictures or further measurement. And thanks for the nice comments!!

Here's a sneak peek at what I'm up to tonight...

I'm sure there are things crazier than doing fiberglass work on top of my new carbs but I'm nervous none the less...

A little more progress on my carb plenum.







Still lots to do fine tuning the appearance but at least the general shape is there.
I installed some shorter velocity stacks but am not sure they turn out, or roll, enough to be exactly right. They will work for a start and I can decide later if I need to do something different.
I also got the rest of the fittings for my oil cooler in so its time to hook up the rest of the bits and get this thing RUNNING!!

Very ingenious,I don't know how to use fiberglass....really think I need to learn, you have made some real cool things!!

very impressive!
Also the way you feed the cold air - behind the trumpets - is a good idea as distribution of air is better that way.

Thanks guys! My goal is to use a mold I took from an FI plenum and "cast" it into the top to look as much like a stock Fiat part as possible.
Pat, fiberglass is amazing stuff and not at all difficult to use. Grinding it is just plain miserable!! Get a paper suit and tape it around your wrists and neck to minimize the uncomfortable sensation of minuscule bits of glass imbedded in your skin! Nasty!!

SoFlaFiat wrote:...Get a paper suit and tape it around your wrists and neck to minimize the uncomfortable sensation of minuscule bits of glass imbedded in your skin! Nasty!!

That is why I work with metal! LOL ...fiberglass is nasty stuff.
But I like where you are going with this very cool!

Cheers!
rob

that motor is crying out for some cool billet cam cover knobs!

Ahhhh, Mark, do I hear Christmas present? You ARE the best!!!
Can you squeeze "miscuglio" on the top of those?

we have them packed in an attractive gift box now! All it needs is a ribbon and bow to go nicely under the tree


Red emblems and black scorpion emblems should arrive this week!

Awesome!! Red or green ribbon... I'm not picky! You choose!!

In an effort to get away from the glass work for a bit and get the wiring buttoned up I spent the day getting my stereo sorted. I know, the car will run without it...
But! I had to get my tweeters in the dash with my amp and tie up all the wiring under the dash to make sure I have nothing hanging lose when I power it up again.
I found a Pyle Marine amp that doesn't require a head unit and hid it up under the dash so I can just use my phone or iPad to play Mack the Knife!!



I have it wired for a pair of 6x9s in back, a pair of 5 1/4s in the footwells and tweeters in the dash. Tried it today with the speakers laying in the floor and it will work fine for me! Not Daniel's type of work to say the least!



I am also hardwiring a USB charging bank so I have power for phones and GoPro.

It's been said that I have placed my amp too close to my tach, and other wiring. Heat and interference...
I'm doing a heat test right now with the stereo running so I can see how hot the amp gets, before I go backwards again...
Any opinions on it being 3" from the back of my tach?

Ok Andy! Done!
I decided if the amp in the dash didn't work it would be a miserable job later so I took it all out



and routed constant power, switched power and front speaker wires to the rear package shelf. Better in the end, I'm sure!

good move, making things accessible is a wise move. I'm intrigued with your dash, are you making a custom top for it?