I'm sure the clear coat gloss look fantastic, but I gotta say, I LOVE the look of just the base coat! Kinda like the frozen colours from BMW. Would be neat to see a finished car like that

Thank you for the kind words Spider2081!!

You know scotcH I had originally thought of doing the car in flat paint, but I did not think it would have matched the age of the car. When I put on the base coat and saw the finished result I said WOW that looks great! you can see all the beautiful sharp lines of the car in flat paint. The clear kinda absorbs some of the sharpness. but the gloss is amazing also, so I am kinda torn between the two.

Currently still working on body paint. Here is some photos on the rehab off the heater core.
Started with this




All of the gaskets had turned to mush and were leaking. Made it damn hard to release the nuts holding the pipes on without shearing them off the brass body. soaked with realese spray for 24 hrs did the trick.




Nasty inside all ports.



this is what is left of the original gasket


all cleaned up with new gaskets and nuts had to chase thread the original bolts for rust.

Drummond, did you check the core for leaks and/or clean out the interior? Nasty looking gunk on the outside. I put in a new core and had a heck of a time getting the old school rubber gaskets to seal well on the core. I finally got it all together and bubble tested it underwater before reinstalling.
Kirk

Hi Klweimer
Surprisingly it was very clean inside, no junk other than what I disturbed taking the pipes and gaskets off. I did a light wash with Muratic acid and a wash with baking soda. all came out clean as a whistle. I have not pressure tested or installed it yet. this I will do before installation.

Door window mechanism rehab, Related to slow window operation.
Drivers door window was a lot slower than the passengers side, when I took the parts apart to rehab them I found out why.
I am not sure why all these parts in the door were totally rusted But I figured either the door to window seal had perished or was missing for a few years or the window was always kept down? whatever it was made a mess of everything in the door. Photos follow
Rusted

Rusted

Surprisingly the motor and the cable were rust free?

Rust

Rust e er

Rusting

Do you think the motor got hot? from pushing against all that rust





This puppy was totally seized!


Left one did not move at all


Rusty Bugger all cleaned up and loose. this was why the window went up and down slowly. Its a pain in the @@ to do but well worth it for both you and the motor. All new window guides were installed also

Did some more bodywork and paint this weekend



First base primer for removable parts. guide coat next and then some blocking






Then did some clear coat polishing on one fender to see how it comes out. there is one blemish can you spot it?

nice color

Looks sharp!

Love the paint! Can you provide anymore details on your process for painting? Did you build a home spray booth, what compressor, what gun? I'm still toying with the idea of painting my car at home but not sure what level of effort/setup/equipment is required.

Richard

Hi rjkoop
Some info. Let me know if you need more detail
I have a 150psi 6 hp craftsman compressor with with a water trap , oil trap and pressure regulators (3) about $400 total (the compressor is 8 years old)
3 adp hvlp spray guns with 1.8 1.4 1.0 spray tips. In order of Primer, Base coat/clear coat. Crevice application for all 3 paint types $110
A 2 gun holder rack. Aircraft fitting air hose. Paint vapor mask, covered body paint coverall. $110
I use low voc paint. 1 x gall high build primer $120 1 x Gall Primer Surfacer 1.5 gall Base paint, $255 1.5 gall Clear coat $185
This amount of paint will cover all the bodywork from bare metal. (engine bay+ hood/trunk + Lid) less if you start from original paint
I set up plastic sheeting on the ceiling. I have a chimney vent which has a air filter over it for incoming air and i have the garage door open 1/4 with two extraction fans blowing out. not the perfect setup but it works for me.

DRUMMOND wrote:Hi rjkoop
Some info. Let me know if you need more detail
I have a 150psi 6 hp craftsman compressor with with a water trap , oil trap and pressure regulators (3) about $400 total (the compressor is 8 years old)
3 adp hvlp spray guns with 1.8 1.4 1.0 spray tips. In order of Primer, Base coat/clear coat. Crevice application for all 3 paint types $110
A 2 gun holder rack. Aircraft fitting air hose. Paint vapor mask, covered body paint coverall. $110
I use low voc paint. 1 x gall high build primer $120 1 x Gall Primer Surfacer 1.5 gall Base paint, $255 1.5 gall Clear coat $185
This amount of paint will cover all the bodywork from bare metal. (engine bay+ hood/trunk + Lid) less if you start from original paint
I set up plastic sheeting on the ceiling. I have a chimney vent which has a air filter over it for incoming air and i have the garage door open 1/4 with two extraction fans blowing out. not the perfect setup but it works for me.

And that's why I love these forums...!

Thanks for the great info.

Richard

This is what you find in a 30 year old master cylinder & fluid reservoir





No wonder the brakes didn't work or bleed too well all cleaned up

Fuel Injector manifold rehab








All the connectors were brittle, all injector lines were dry rotted. engine had too many cold starts or was running very rich. Cleaned injectors replaced all connectors, seals and fuel lines. checked injectors were working. all cleaned up nicely





Intake tube cleans up nicely with boot polish! unfortunate for me it had a bunch of hairline cracks in it! should have found this out before I cleaned it

Nice work! That looks very familiar, good to see that they may look the same inside as mine did too. Are those new hose compression clamps, or were you able to reuse the originals?