Installing New Injectors

[micbrody]

I have total of three AFMs that I have accumulated. I will look at then to see what spring configuration looks like.

Per the actual resistance surface that copper contact slides along:
I have a long post as to how I have recoated the board with a specific conductive paint. It’s at least 3000-4000 miles into it and car runs great

[micbrody]

And small correction for Maxm50:

The TTS is only energized during cranking/start position. So after car is running (key back to “on” position, there won’t be any energy to the CSI/TTS.

The procedure Maxm50 suggest to test TTS is spot on; and that’s how I diagnosed my malfunctioning TTS. When car is already warm, with connector on CSI, very difficult to start; but when car warm and CSI electrical plug disconnected, car started great: so TTS was always sending “fire” signal to CSI regardless of engine temperature.
What I was suggesting: you said after car started , that engine was not running great and had high idle. That could still potentially mean a mechanically leaky CSI- as it sees constant fuel pressure when car is “on”.
But no reason to investigate if you can “tune” the warm car idle to 900 ish RPMs

[maxm50]

And small correction for Maxm50:

The TTS is only energized during cranking/start position. So after car is running (key back to “on” position, there won’t be any energy to the CSI/TTS.

Great to know! Thanks for the correction. I assumed it was not tied to the cranking key position because of the way it's described in Brad Artigue's FI manual. He describes it as firing for about 8 seconds on a cold start - but you're saying the CSI only fires on a cold engine WHILE the starter is cranking? That actually makes more sense to me.

I wonder if it will stop firing after 8 seconds of cold cranking... then both you AND Brad would be correct. But hey, if you're cranking for 8 seconds, something else is definitely wrong...

[RRoller123]

I believe that the TTS does enable the CSI after the car starts, and not just in the START position. One can clearly hear the change in engine speed and behavior after about that 8 second time on a cold start, when the CSI shuts off, well after the key is returned to the RUN position.

I will test that idea today with my noid light. I put a noid light on the CSI plug yesterday afternoon to check the TTS on a HOT restart, to make sure that it wasn't stuck on, as suggested could be the case. The car had been fully warmed up, driven through a couple of fan cycles, and then left sitting for about an hour. The temp gauge, with ignition ON, showed just lifted slightly above the 120 reading. The CSI did NOT fire, plus, my hot no-restart problem is completely gone, so I think I can safely assume that the TTS is good, the CSI is good (it is new anyway) and the flooding problem was caused by the leaking old injectors.

Note that they were NOT apparently leaking out the tip, past the pin! They were all leaking where the nozzle is crimped to the injector body, a slight seepage noticeable on all 4. So cleaning them didn't help.

Pete

[micbrody]

I “believe” the change in engine speed is a combination of temperature readings from coolant t thermometer sending signals to ECU to adjust timing of fuel injectors AND (more likely) the AAV closing down

[micbrody]

I “believe” the change in engine speed is a combination of temperature readings from coolant t thermometer sending signals to ECU to adjust timing of fuel injectors AND (more likely) the AAV closing down

[maxm50]

Let us know what your light says, Pete! That definitely sounds like the right way to test the theory...

I doubt the AAV closes after ~8 seconds. When I bench-tested mine hooked up to a 12v battery, it took a good 30-60s to close completely. And it won't get any appreciable engine heat in <30sec to accelerate the process.

[RRoller123]

Not the AAV, the CSI.

[maxm50]

Yup, I was referring to Micbrody’s comment about the temp sensor warming up or the AAV closing around that 8s timeframe... and I haven’t confirmed either, and I believe both of those need a good bit more than 8s to happen.

[RRoller123]

Temp sensor response is pretty fast, so rises along with the coolant temperature, engine takes maybe 10 minutes or even more to be fully up to speed. I seem to remember doing some oven tests in the house on the AAV about 8 years ago or so. It took the AAV maybe 3-5 minutes or more to fully close, without the electrical heating element assistance. But it was a long time ago, my memory could be wrong.

[Bigtcat]

Hey guys I’m actually attempting to install the black rubber hoses which connect directly to the injectors and I’m not sure how to attach them. I haven’t pulled anything apart yet but I was hoping to see a video or picture of how things looked all apart so I could possibly use hose clamps for the rubber hose attachment to both the injector and the fuel rail. I am changing the rubber hoses because they are dry rot and starting to leak. The injectors are clean and work perfectly.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Hey guys I’m actually attempting to install the black rubber hoses which connect directly to the injectors and I’m not sure how to attach them. I haven’t pulled anything apart yet but I was hoping to see a video or picture of how things looked all apart so I could possibly use hose clamps for the rubber hose attachment to both the injector and the fuel rail. I am changing the rubber hoses because they are dry rot and starting to leak. The injectors are clean and work perfectly.

Sorry for the late reply. You do need to use fuel hose rated for fuel injection pressures, and you can use hose clamps on the ends but make sure you get good ones. Ideally the clamps would be designed for fuel injection hose and not the El-Cheapo brands that tend to cut gouges into the hose.

As for the length of the hose: As short as you can make it, but long enough so that the fuel rail is positioned properly. It is attached to the intake runners with a single bolt, and you can bolt that up and then measure how long the hose needs to be. Cut pieces a little longer so that you don't "pull" on the hoses/injectors as you tighten the fuel rail to the intake runners.

-Bryan

[Bigtcat]

Thank you! I just finished this job and it runs great and no more fuel smell in the engine bay! Dry as a bone! I wasn’t sure I could replace them like that but it worked! Thought I had to buy all new injectors (although they probably should be replaced soon) this saved me a tone of money for the time being.