Need a new alternator.... Should I get the 95 Amp

[Turbofiat124]

The brown wire fix is where you run a 10 guage wire from the post of the starter (or alternator, easier) to an unused pin on the back of the ignition switch. It allows an extra path for current .

[spider2081]

What is the "brown wire fix"? My battery indicator is also always flickering and/or on.

I don't know what the original thought was with the "brown wire fix"
I do believe there are a lot of miss-conceptions of what it accomplishes.
Looking at the internals of the original Sipea ignition switches terminal 30 has a single switch contact. Externally it has 2 terminals that can be used for that contact. So adding a second wire to terminal 30 does not add an internal switch contact.
The original brown wire from the starters battery terminal to the ignition switch passes through a connector located in the lower area of the drivers fender well. This connector is the usual cause of the dreaded "click" when the ignition key is rotated to the start position.
As stated the brown wire fix installs a new #10 wire from the starters solenoid battery terminal to the ignition switch's unused terminal 30. In addition to increasing the current carrying capacity of the stock wiring, It bypasses the connector on the drivers side fender well. Servicing the original brown wire connector will usually cure the click and dim headlights issues.
Early cars (like your 1970) have a white 3 pin nylon connector with a heavy brown wire a red wire and sometimes a black wire in the connector. Later cars use single bullet connectors located behind the charcoal canister near the driver side engine mount one has brown wire one has red wire. The red wire is the "start" wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. It needs to be clean and tight also.

[DieselSpider]

The Brown Wire fix just overcomes what some thought was a very minimal sized wire feeding the ignition switch but never took into consideration the electrical load on the switch itself. Just keying the starter puts puts a bit over a 10 amp load on the ignition switch since there is a solenoid used to extend the starter drive and hold it engaged with the flywheel.

[RRoller123]

Even my brand new replacement ignition switch has been balky. I plan to do a couple of things: SOLDER Those two damned bullet connections just behind the Alternator that cause so much trouble, and replace the ignition switch with a push button start system, easily done, not too expensive. (I already soldered the connections just downstream of the ignition switch itself at C34. That is another source of perpetual trouble.

[spider2081]

Even my brand new replacement ignition switch has been balky.

I think the replacement switches are designed for cars that us relayed circuits. The original Sepia ignition switch has 2 separate sets of contacts independent of each other fort he "Start and run" position of the switch. One set of contacts primarily powered the ignition and the other set the lights. The replacement switches use a single set of contacts for the "start and run" positions. Also it appears the material housing the contacts has a much lower melting point as I have seen a number of them melted inteernally.

[Turbofiat124]

All I know is the battery light used to glow dim with the headlights on and now it doesn't. The brown wire fix just allows extra current to power everything off the ignition switch. Kind of like going from a 5/16" fuel line to a 3/8" if your carb us starving for fuel.

Yes those new LADA VAZ replacement switches are supposed to be relayed. So I've read..

[DieselSpider]

All I know is the battery light used to glow dim with the headlights on and now it doesn't. The brown wire fix just allows extra current to power everything off the ignition switch. Kind of like going from a 5/16" fuel line to a 3/8" if your carb us starving for fuel.

Yes those new LADA VAZ replacement switches are supposed to be relayed. So I've read..

I intend to relay the ignition switch regardless of which one I have. The potential for the switch to have to hold a 50 amp load warrants changing it over to a relay so your maintenance item will be a socketed relay that can cost less than $20 to replace in a plug and play manner and not a very expensive ignition switch.