Fluids and Filters

[Welder]

Has anyone tried this oil in the tranny (http://www.amazon.com/Millers-Oils-5007 ... ords=green)
I'm getting ready to change out the pan gasket and i'm shopping for fluid

[chelo]

Hi guys. This is my first time in the Forum. I just bought a Fiat 2000, 1981. I do not have any literature and I want to the maintenance require for the lubricants. Please let me know your recommendations for for the Transmission, differential and engine oils. Tks.

[TX82FIAT]

Welder - That millers 90 wt mineral oil with no additives should absolutely work. Can you buy that off amazon? did not see a price but my wife has amazon prime so no cost for shipping.

[KevAndAndi]

Hi guys. This is my first time in the Forum. I just bought a Fiat 2000, 1981. I do not have any literature and I want to the maintenance require for the lubricants. Please let me know your recommendations for for the Transmission, differential and engine oils. Tks.

I have an '81, as well, and I use:

Tranny: NAPA GL-1 90 Gear Oil. $9/gal. Part #65-201.
Diff: NAPA Premium Performance Gear oil SAE 80W90. $4/qt. Part #75210.
Motor: Shell Rotella T 15W40. $12/gal.

With the motor oil, don't be put off by the labeling saying that it's for diesel engines.

Have fun!

P.S. I'm going to sound like a broken record to some of the forum members, but here goes: My advice to anyone buying an FI Spider is to have the air flow meter immediately refurbished. Fuel Injection Corp. in Calif. does a great job with this. It's a couple hundred bucks well spent, if you can part with the dough and if you believe the AFM to be original and unrefurbished, but especially if you suspect it is malfunctioning and/or has been tampered with. FIC will replace the electronics and test and calibrate it. Then it's good for another 30 or so years. You can look at my previous posts on the subject, if you're so inclined. It's an extremely important component of the FI system and is prone to wear, damage (from backfiring, etc), and ill-advised "adjustments". I believe many if not most of them out there have a defect of some kind. Probably the most common pertains to the actuating arm inside that operates the contact energizing the fuel pump - this is often bent, which means that when you turn the key to the "pre-start" position, the fuel pump starts running. That's not supposed to happen. You can fix that defect yourself easily enough. Another common problem: If the air bypass screw plug has been removed, that probably means it has been messed with, and it's virtually impossible for an owner-mechanic to set that properly without the necessary equipment, specs, and knowledge.