azruss,
This is what I have for a parts list:
Upper/Lower control arm kit VAS $200
A-arm Polyurethane bushing kit VAS $129
Inner/Outer tie-rods VAS $50
Front wheel bearing/new hub kit VAS $185
Center link VAS $35
Shocks IAS $140

Am I missing anything? Do I need any special tools? I was thinking after I get it put back together have it towed to the alignment shop.

Pesto,
Before you buy anything on that list it would be beneficial to you to read Jay's post:

http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... a&start=30

Third page describes his difficulties relative to your list.
Price those same parts from Auto Ricambi! Always the truth and nothing but from them!

Thanks for the link, I had read parts of it before. It confirms my suspicion of it being a tough job, however if I can't afford a mechanic I'll have to man up and try. Oh by the way I'll be getting my parts from Csaba if he has them.

Update: 5 hours of work today and I finally have all the rubber sound deadening stuff chisled off (hardess thing I have ever done on a car) and I took the dash off (mega easy). I made sure I labled all the pigtails to where they go, my dash is in amazing shape for its age. Here's a pic.



I had one question concerning the charcol canister. There is a hose running from it along the firewall to the carb, however it is not connected, been that way since I bought it. There is another hose running from the bottom of the can to a hard line, which I think runs back the vapor thing in the trunk, not sure car isn't jacked up and I don't fit underneath it to see.
I posted a couple of pics showing the situation, any help would be great.
This pic shows the hose that isn't connected.


This one shows the carb. Is this where I am suppose to connect the charcol canister hose?


Thanks for the help, Pesto

juvius, here is the pic you requested. I hope it is what you need.
I hope I helped.
Pesto

I bought my front end stuff from AR. I spec'd the metal thickness on the A-arms and it matched factory. When you buy the A-arms, the bushings and the ball joint are already installed. You wont need a bushing kit. You may want to buy bushings for the sway bar. Not very expensive. I used my old hubs as they were good and the bearings were good. I just bought front and back bearing seals, nut, and grease cup. If your bearings are in good shape, you can save some money this way. If water has gotten to them, then replace. If you have your tie rod sections, you just need to buy the ball joints and not the whole thing. They are LH/RH threaded, so be aware that each has a set. While you are at it, you may want to look at the condition of your rotors and throw them in to the same order if they are bad (thin, crazed, or warped). I also bought shocks from AR. I went with low pressure KYB's. I am running 195/55x15s and my suspension with 70 springs and the KYB's is still stiff enough to loosen a filling on a rough road.

Update:
Finally finished the floor, I used SEM RustShield:



Dash wood inlay, I used a solid piece of Padauk. I still need to drill out the speedo and tac (waiting on a 4' forsnter bit) sand it, and laquer but it looked pretty good so I posted an early pic.

Wow, nice work. You sure have jumped into the deep part of the pool, but you are doing fine.

Post a picture of the actual car. How does the outside look. Early ones are real pretty.

I'll post a new pic of the exterior after I get the new top on and do a Meguiars paint restore wax job. Thanks for the positive comments.
Pesto

Nice job Pesto!
Padauk is beautiful stuff! Very stable too! Smelly to sand though huh?

FYI, someone had a lot of trouble with the poly bushes from Vicks; http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... 15#p207902

If they work out for you, I want to buy them as well.

V12,
From other posts and talking with Csaba I deciding not to go with the polyurethane bushings. I'll stick with the old school rubber when I get to the front end. I like the ride I have soft yet firm enough in the corners to have a little fun.
Thanks for the heads-up.

SoFlaFiat,
Yes Padauk is a bit caustic, I didn't know that when I ordered it, so I wear a painters mask and eye protection when working with it. But it sure is beautiful wood.
Pesto

Update: Redneck custom dash










Now the bad news apparently I screwed something up. I labled all the connectors and small wires and connected them but when I connected the battery the horn would go off. I disconected the horn and tried again, all seemed good until I put the key in the ignition then all hell broke lose, the defroster fan was on lights on the dash were lit, I couldn't depress the clutch because it was tugging on the speedo cable. I disconnected the battery put the cover on and called it a day. Getting the dash on is a lot more difficult than taking it off. I think I'm going to quit and seek professional help.

sorting out wiring is a PITA. sounds like you did something as simple as switching a ground wire and a hot wire. just need to figure out which one.

Ok I took some time to cool off, frustration level was getting to high to think clearly.
I looked at the electrical schematic and I am a bit confused, do I literally put the color of wire in the same left to right order as in the drawing. I took pictures of the two circuits I think may be the problem (clock and curtesy light switch).

As you can see if I follow the drawing from left to right I have it wrong, so which wire goes where?

All switches should be labled for which wire goes where.
Thanks, Pesto