probable valve issues

[majicwrench]

I don't recall seeing compression numbers?? Did I miss something??

[FordPrefect]

I'll try to double check compression this afternoon. Cam timing is on, both cam pulleys are on their marks when the engine is at TDC, dizzy set at number 4.

[FordPrefect]

I hope #4 gave me bad numbers because of the difficulty in getting the tester set up in that cylinder, but looks like:

• 1. 110
  2. 105
  3. 105
  4. 60

I checked the valve lash again as well, and .025 on #4 is the only one out. Dunno if that would cause the headache?

[FordPrefect]

I did a wet test on #4 just now, and it's up to 105 like the rest, so I guess there's that.

[narfire]

They still seem a bit low for a stock motor. #4 is an issue . Do try and get the clearances close to spec as possible. #4 exhaust valve is a bit of a pain with the valve tool but try the test again when clearances are at spec. I'm not sure if my thinking is correct but 25 thou would have the valve opening late and closing early, not the best for optimum performance.
Chris

[FordPrefect]

Wouldn't the car at least try to start when out of spec, albeit run poorly?

[narfire]

Wouldn't the car at least try to start when out of spec, albeit run poorly

Yeup, I'd think so. I'm not a mechanic so I would'nt know the lower limit of compression these motors need to run.
Perhaps,if there is a hill nearby and an enthusiastic assistant, try and bump start it. Although a hair brained idea it has worked for me in the past.
Chris

[124JOE]

IF YOU HAVE POINTS and a condencer then change that condencer
its the silver little can on the dist

[FordPrefect]

IF YOU HAVE POINTS and a condencer then change that condencer
its the silver little can on the dist

I replaced points, condenser, cap and rotor last month.

[FordPrefect]

Since it appears all the power for the coil goes through the ignition switch, is it likely the switch is faulty? I considered repairing/replacing it in the past, but the issue at the time seemed to clear up. The terminals on the back seem ok, and every thing else seems to have decent power (lights/radio/fuel pump etc.) is there a way to isolate that circuit and see if it's ok?

[pressonregardless]

FordPrefect: I noticed your post on the "Random electrical issues" dated 6 Oct 2011. I think you may have one and the same. Your jumping Tach with lights not going on when the key is in the "Run" position is all from intermittent in your ignition switch. My '74 started the same issues a few weeks ago to the point it would not even run (crank is good, battery is good). I traced down issues surround the coil voltage, ect and guess what??? Take your fist or a dead blow rubber hammer and rap on the bottom of the ignition switch and wire bundle, BINGO. Back to normal. Now looking for a new switch.