Not as surprised as I am. Everyone at VAS have been great to deal with over the last half year, thisSo Cal Mark wrote:I'm surprised the vendor couldn't offer advice on how to make their product work properly.
is very puzzling.
Thanks,
Mark
Not as surprised as I am. Everyone at VAS have been great to deal with over the last half year, thisSo Cal Mark wrote:I'm surprised the vendor couldn't offer advice on how to make their product work properly.
They've opened two quarts sure, drain, fill, drain, fill, drain, fill, flush, bleed...bradartigue wrote:They ran two quarts of fluid through it trying to make it work? I think I would get the thing home and make sure they did the rest of the brake job correctly. Why not get the vendor to replace the part? You've spent the money on stainless. Pretty sure if the part is made poorly they'll replace it. Well, most of them will anyway.opus10583 wrote:A rubber one on it's way... 250 wasted dollars not including the labor or the two quarts of brake fluid they've gone through trying to make it work.
An "expert" recently replaced the clutch cable on a friend's Spider for $400. This was before i knew the guy had bought a FIAT...long story short, when it broke due to misrouting and I swapped it in his driveway in 12 minutes he was kind of pissed. If you know how to do this stuff yourself - even if you don't do the work yourself - you can save yourself some misery.
Opus, sounds like a complete fuster cluck.opus10583 wrote:Received a replacement hose yesterday: Same configuration, T-block-end fitting is about 10mm too short.
I didn't mean to disparage, kludge to me is any sort of workaround...WYSpider wrote:Opus, sounds like a complete fuster cluck.opus10583 wrote:Received a replacement hose yesterday: Same configuration, T-block-end fitting is about 10mm too short.
Whatever solution you come up with, be sure you have slack in the hose to compensate for things moving around.
I'm sure Casaba or Ramzi at Auto Ricambi, Thomas at Midwest-Bayless, or Mark at Allison's Automotive would be able to fix you up with the proper stainless hoses.
Center Brake Hose with Teflon Tape "Kludge"
I usually just jack the car up by the rear axle, so the compensator stays open.WYSpider wrote: Only thing you need to do for the rear is disconnect the rear brake compensator (that silver metal bracket on the right edge of my picture), and position the compensator bar up as far as it goes (I use a piece of wood to hold it up).