Timing Belt Woes/Water Tee issue

[gjacobs101]

Hello,
I'm working on a timing belt change but ran into a snag. In removing the water tee (not sure of the correct terminology) to get off the timing belt cover, one of the bolts snapped off. The tee is fed from the top of the block, tried those bolts but did not dare put too much torque on them, if I snap those off its a block problem.
I believe there are some tools for drilling out a snapped bolt.

Thanks in advance
-George

[azruss]

If you can remove the T and have any of the bolt exposed, then try using vice grips. You will have trouble getting it out if it is frozen enough to snap it off, so regardless of how you remove the bolt, you will need to give it a few days of penetrating oil (wd40 or similar). Go to any hardware or automotive store and ask for "easy outs". They come in a variety of sizes and you have to find a drill bit that matches the size. the hard part is keeping the drill centered in the busted bolt.

[gjacobs101]

Thanks,
Will try the easy out/bolt extractor but will soak with penetrating fluid for a few days first as you suggest. That will give me a few days to work on my real task, timing belt/water pump.
A quick search showed lots of bolt extractors. Any advice on who makes the best ones?

-George

[wikkid]

Or left-handed drill bit to drill a hole in the sheared off bit; insert screw, and turn it out.

PB blaster is a penetrating bolt loosener; WD-40 is not the best tool for that job.

[azruss]

I like the kind that looks like a LH wood screw. I've used the type with the square end and dont like them as well. Do you best to drill in the center of the stud.

[narfire]

If there is a bit of bolt showing,do try the vice grips but I will flaten two sides for a bit more surface area to grab.
Drilling and easy out also works but as mentioned you HAVE to get the center of the bolt,(perhaps file flat) good whack with a center punch first. If it goes off center,no worries, next step would be to heli-coil with a metric correct me if I'm wrong people, 6 X 1.25.
Taking the housing out from the head would make all these choices a wee bit easier.
Chris

[majicwrench]

I would NOT try an easy out. They are "easy" to break in the bolt, and are not always the best tool for a frozen bolt. Esp a tiny 6mm bolt.
First thing is heat. Is there some bolt still sticking out?? Heat it, propane torch is enough, tap tap. Soak, tap tap, grab with vice grips, be nice. Heat, tap tap soak, tap tap. If nothing sticking out, get dremel tool with little cutoff wheel, cut a grove for a screwdriver in top of bolt.

Taking housing off head, same approach BEFORE you break the bolts. Heat, lube, tap tap, be gently. They will come.

Easy out bad option at this time.
Keith

PS 6x1.00 threads

[wikkid]

Majic has you covered with his very sound advice.

[geno58]

A little heat may help the cause, especially if there is room for Visegrips.

[ORFORD2004]

Put Heli-Coil and you won't have problems after that

[gjacobs101]

I did pick up a set of easy outs, but I will try cutting a notch with a dremel first. Some folks suggest using the easy outs, but others say steer clear. Hopefully the dremel option + heat will work.

There is not enough sticking out to get vice grips on unfortunately. I'm quite surprised I snapped the bolt, I only had a 1/4 in small ratchet on it. It started coming out, so thats a good sign. I've been soaking it with PB Blaster for a few days, hopefully that and some heat will help. I'm really nervous about the bolts in the head for the other end of the water tee. They seem really jammed, worse than the one I broke. If I snap those off I'm screwed. I'm going to try to do what I can with the existing snapped bolt.

On another note,
Is it necessary to remove the crank pulley? That would probably be my next problem. It seems that if I remove the tension on the belt and the tensioner pulley bearing (I have a new one), that the belt should slip off the cam pulleys and should come right off. Am I missing something (probably)...

Thanks for the help on my stupid question. I guess I have been living a sheltered life, in all my backyard mechanic years I've never had to deal with a bolt issue like this.

Thanks!
-George

[azruss]

I mentioned the easy out because you specifically asked about such a tool. It is a last resort tool and dont work as good as you think it would. As others have stated, if you have any part of the bolt you can grab with vice grips, you can save yourself a lot of work.
Getting the timing belt off/on the crank gear can be an effort. On some of the newer cars, there is a plate the blocks removal, on some the timing indicator doesnt swing away and also blocks. even with those 2 things removed, it is a PITA to get it past the pulley and pan flange. It can be done with patience and a lot of cussing.

[gjacobs101]

I don't have any experience with the easy outs and this is a very small bolt so I'll try other methods first. Hopefully cutting a notch, heat and a hand screwdriver impact tool will do the trick. Reading through other posts doesn't make me have much faith in the easy out method, I guess they wouldn't sell many if they called them snap offs.

I don't have the 1 1/2 " socket so I was hoping to get away without taking the crank pulley off. I have a 77, I don't recall anything being in the way but you may be right.

Thanks for the help
-George

[gjacobs101]

Got the timing belt off, and the easy outs got the stuck bolt out. Unfortunately the notch cutting trick did not work for me. Put in
- Timing belt
- Tensioner bearing
- Water Pump
- New Belts

I haven't started it up yet, and my last question is about static timing (I think that is the correct term).
- With the cams aligned to the pointers, the crank should be aligned to TDC #4 cylinder right??

Thanks for all the help
-George

[ventura ace]

Yes, with the cam pointers on their marks. The crank should be at TDC for #1 and #4 (they're both at TDC, #4 is ready for it's power stroke, and #1 is ready for its intake stroke). The distributor rotor should be pointed in the vicinity the #4 contact inside the cap.

Alvon