Help with static timing

[wikkid]

Happy Thanksgiving, all!
I am away from the Spider for the holiday weekend, so I am trying to read up on Spider procedures to get prepped for checking the static timing on the car. I'm a little confused, and the pictures and diagrams without the car aren't helping.
Are the crankshaft timing marks on an '84 Pininfarina on the plastic shroud cover that is bolted on over top of the pulleys?
I remember seeing some marks down low on that cover - not sure if that is them.

And if those are the marks, wouldn't that same big plastic cover hide the cam timing marks?

I'm just trying to get my head wrapped around how to check these things without having to take off the radiator hoses and pulling off more belts and such.

[So Cal Mark]

static timing usually refers to ignition timing and it sounds like you're asking about cam timing. Cam timing marks are not on the cover and the 2L motors have a timing indicator on the right side of the crankshaft. Cam gear timing marks can be seen on the back side of the gears. If your engine still has the rear tin covers in place, there should be a small inspection hole to check alignment

[wikkid]

What would you suggest, then, for a car that is not yet starting, just to be sure that it's not a timing issue? I wanted to be sure that the distributor is firing on 4 when the timing marks are set up. I guess I could just get cylinder 1 on TDC, and pull the dist. cap to see if the rotor is pointing to the #4 contact?

[ventura ace]

Unless you've done some disassembly of the engine, distributor, timing belt, etc., you'd shouldn't need to be concerned about the cam timing (that is, whether #1 or #4 is in the right position for firing). In other words, if the engine was running before, and you haven't removed the timing belt or distributor, it should still be pointed in about the right place.

On the other hand, if you have taken things apart, then you do need to get the cam timing in exactly the right place, or else the engine will not run well, if at all. This means, you need to be able to line up both cam gears and the crankshaft (and the aux shaft) to their proper positions, and have the distributor ready to fire on #4. It's more than just having #1 and #4 at TDC and the distributor aimed at the right place. The cams have to be properly positioned to open and close the valves at the right time, and the aux shaft needs to be pointed correctly to keep things from banging in to each other. Check all the timing marks for proper position, and you should be good to go.

Wishing you success!

Alvon

[wikkid]

Thanks - I will be taking it apart soon enough to change the timing belt, but for now, I just have to assume that it was once running, and that nothing was mucked about with. It hasn't started for me yet, so I am checking through the FI system elements, but I also wanted to check to be sure the spark is being delivered where it will ignite.

All in all, the timing marks seem easier to get right if the hoses and belts are out of the way for timing belt replacement, so I'll do that soon, and keep at it with the FI system diagnostics. They need it anyway!

[spider2081]

I'm sure that many people have their own approach to starting an engine that has been sitting years. What I do is not the only approach for sure.
1. First I visually inspect the fuel lines and electrical wiring.
2. Next I pull the fuel gauge sender in the fuel tank and look into the tank. This way I see how much fuel needs to be drained and how rusty the tank is. Then disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump and empty the old fuel from the tank.
I install an inline fuel filter before the pump like a Wix 33270 if the tank looks clean I put a gallon or so fresh fuel in the tank.
3. Disconnect the hose on the cold start valve and connect a clear plastic hose to it so fuel from the hose can be collected in a can. I bought a length of clear hose at Home Depot with an ID that fits over the existing hose. I think itS 9/16 ID
4. Turn the ignition to the run position. move the flapper in the Air Flow Sensor. I take the plastic cover off the sensor and move the flapper this lets me see the switch that turns on the fuel pump physically move. The fuel pump should run and fuel should come out the hose into the can. If it does, pump at least a quart out to purge the lines. If the pump doesn't run you need to troubleshoot the fuel pump circuit. Once pump works reconnect cold start valve hose.
5. Remove distributor cap and inspect pick-up wires. If they look good click the starter till the timing marks are close then put the car in 5th gear and roll it to align marks. Remember the crankshaft mark aligns twice; one for exhaust, and again to fire. As mentioned above the cam marks are observed from the rear. the gears have small holes in them and the holes should align with the little indices in the cam box. THe rotor should be near #4 cylinder in cap. If good replace cap
6. I like to use a battery charger with "start" position connected to battery to try and start the engine. More than likely the injectors will be gummed up and extra voltage will be needed to make them work.
7. I remove the hose from the Aux Air Regulator at the regulator and pour about a 1/2 ounce of fuel into the intake plenum. Reconnect the hose.
8. Pray one short prayer to the God of engines and try to start the engine.
Soounds like a lot of work but really doesn't take much time and I have found it very effective.

[wikkid]

That's what I was looking for, since I have done numbers 1 - 4 above. Hopefully, this will get me going once I am back to it after the holiday weekend away.

Thanks - hope it works!